I've also driven a smattering of other Dodges that we have at work, along with other American brands, and they each have their strengths and weaknesses. Here's the technique to slide the rubber down the channel around the window. It's easier to slip over a nut, but doesn't grab as much of the nut - and you need all the surface area grab you can get because these nuts are almost guaranteed to be rusted badly. Brown wire relay output goes to +12v when the ignition is turned on. Since Pin 30 is confirmed fuse 6 +V, this means the output side of the relay must float up to about +V even when the relay is not closed.
Factory experts prepare these manuals for their dealership service departments, so they're the most complete and specific source of repair techniques. I did the spark plug test again by turning over the engine, and this time got about 5 sparks, then intermittent, then it quit doing any sparks while turning over the engine. Sunday 2 weeks : Replacement computer didn't change anything. Output of relay contact compared to ground is ~ 0v when the car is off, +V when the ignition is on should be since relay is closed , and t hen ~0 v when cranking. Another web page says fuse 9, but that did not check out on my van. Please check Dodge B250 car parts catalog for additional information if you're looking for parts to repair your vehicle. The new color-keyed steering column included an ignition switch and steering column lock, with new two-spoke, deep-dish steering wheels similar to those in cars, and woodgrain appliqué on higher trim levels.
Pulling cylinder heads, for example, is tough, as getting the exhaust manifolds off the heads with the head still bolted to the engine is a very tight operation. While the wire was off, I measured the wire alone and I think it was about 1. After it was repaired, I received Big Blue back from the repair shop. There may be other problems with the vehicle which are not apparent, visible or known. However, you should connect up the motor connector and run the control arm almost to the end of the gear because the entire assembly fits in the door better that way.
The second picture shows the little rivet heads that fell into the door with the punch and hammer. The fuel pump is suppose to have a check valve that prevents backflow of fuel. It stabilizes long term at about 65 ohms, which is okay since there are other circuits in parallel. Several people reminded that flexing metal over and over makes it fatigue and fail. Their cross reference provided a battery type that was all sold out.
This number contains vital information about the car, such as its manufacturer, year of production, the plant it was produced in, type of engine, model and more. Of course, a brake wire had to be run to the back bumper. If I move the key to crank the engine, the pressure slowly rises over about 10 seconds up to a stable pressure above 12 psi my gauge goes only to 10 psi. The brown plastic piece unclipped easily and I could get at the fuel pump and the black sock filter. The B-vans were phased in over 1970 and 1971; they started as 1971 models. This made the pump come on to squirt fuel into an external gas can.
On an older van, after the cables have stretched, this may not perfectly match the dashboard indication. . Hydraulic lifters can begin to fail through normal use of a vehicle. Turns out the new piece was incorrectly made with a hole too big so that the flat head screw secures nothing when installed it just sits in the cover hole. After pulling the distributor top, I couldn't figure out how to remove the spinning stem from inside the distributor to look deeper. The new left brake cable is on the right side of this rearward looking picture. I found two relay-box looking things bolted to the firewall.
Unlike many scissor lift regulators, the 1989 B250 has only one arm that reaches to the window rail and it pivots against the motor assembly, which is held to the door with four rivets. The four terminals are numbered 30, 85, 86, and 87. It runs fine to start and idle, so I don't think it's a timing issue. Research about loss of power and no acceleration on the web at. Actually, it would be the parallel circuit that needs attention. I am guessing the fuel guage resistor is fed with 12 volts but through another resistor so the output voltage will change as the tank empties. I had to drop the entire tank a second time and check connections.
A vacuum hose on the top of the regulator helps move the diaphram lowers the fuel pressure? At the bottom, I also have some simple graphs aggregating lots of data on costs. I unbolted the firewall device, and looking at the bottom. The base engine was the slant six, now with 95 horsepower at 3,600 rpm; the 318 had 140 horsepower at the same revs, and a 360 four-barrel was sold with 180 hp, again at 3,600 rpm. Trying to figure out why there's no spark. As installed in the van, the switch is normally fully compressed and when you press the brake pedal fully, it's released to it's normal status.
The bolt Removing the old cables had only one significant problem. T he normal switch normal is reversed operationally for the brake switch. The relay coil measures 80-65 ohms, depending on how long I let the voltage die away after having the ignition on. I imagine it's either the spark, or the fuel, or the air. Monday 1 week 1 day : I found out how to do more authoritatively listed on the Mopar computer spec sheet, linked below.