I assume you are asking this question because all spark plug wires have been removed and now you don't know where to begin. If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. Wire 50 brown is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire 900 to the actuator. Went through the wiring last night and its a mess. I am very pleased with the overall purchasing experience with 1A Auto.
This kit is designed to replace the original shift actuator with the new, revised version. The light never went on, and I could tell it never engaged still could spin the rear tires. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. The diaphragm may be busted. This actuator is needed for the 4 wheel drive to work.
I tried while stopped, too, and it never engaged. It was very easy to install using the online video. The actuator may not be fully engaged or disengaged and the fork to the spline may be what is causing the grinding. Well I found this thread a little late to help some of you, but if possible replace the thermal actuator with the motored one. Faulty actuator on top of the front diff is worn out.
Yes The new style has four pins i think! When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Thanks, Phil Phil, No problem. The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. If you don't feel the compression go around again. If it is similar I'd looked for vacuum lines that are not hooked up or leaking.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator. If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. I know that the new style actuators are a hell of a lot better than the old. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator.
Does anyone have a diagram of what each pin does? Since 1918, Dorman Products has supplied the automotive aftermarket with high-quality replacement parts, hardware and fasteners. This has solved the cold temperature problem. Using the newer connector with the older actuator? I have one of each the new style and old style front actuator kicking around and was wondering how each works when wired up. I had 2 of the gas type go out before I upgraded mine to the all electric actuator. I had the same problem once and that was it.
Checked my wiring harness which is a four prong ann it had one hot prong like it is suppose to. I like to thank you for that answer, I was just about to ask that same question altough my 454 is out and I can see the velves. When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts. Three of the five wires are cut short, the other two are still connected to the plug.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd. If no 4x4 after the actuator, repl the vacuum switch On the fullsize, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum. The old style thermal has two wires coming out of it. The actuator is wired by the way of the floor shifter. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator. A … nd am I right shouldn't they both be closed and this point? When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential.
Does anyone have a diagram of what each pin does? Since 1918, Dorman Products has supplied the automotive aftermarket with high-quality replacement parts, hardware and fasteners. While the light is blinking the electric current is heating the gasses. Make sure to open all doors and only do this for 1 minute at a time. And as far as fixing it you have to find it first it could be a hose with a hole in it. The old style thermal has two wires coming out of it. I was told it could be the transfercase actuator even though its workin that actuator is what sends power to the front to engage the actuator to lock the differential. The Dog Napper covered your other questions nicely.