We will proceed from there. The module is located under the plate. I pulled all the plugs and let it just sit for a day to air it all out. Coil, condenser on older cars, pickup in the distributor, spark control, igniter on Toyota's, rotor, fuse under the hood or fusible link, computer, timing belt broke. Do you have more then 1 plug smashed?? But typically, the best plug wires are going to be what the manufacturer tells you to use.
Do I ground the black test lead and then place the red test lead in each end of each wire to be tested? I noticed after that that the car had been hesitating and running poorly occasionally but running great at other times. If the engine has been souped up with high dome pistons and the clearance is not correct then pistons will strike plugs and… Need to replace ingnition module in the distributor. Here are my thoughts on parts it may be: Fuel pump: Fuel pump checks out at 62psi. I bet it has white chalky corrosion in it. Aug 26, 2011 Does it have injector pulse to deliver fuel to the cylinders? This is probably making your eahaust red hot. Running good not, thanks to everyone for the help! Check the spark from the coil with the spark tester first. Dec 23, 2013 Spark indicates crank sensor, ignition coils and modules-ok no voltage at injectors; should be 12v in each of the injector wires not the black one with key on engine off.
Can someone help me find a reason that the car wouldnt start even with carb cleaner??? Then one night i parked it and when I went out the next morning it wouldn't start. So are the ignition and solenoid wires bad, or the neutral safety switch? I assumed that was the issue and filled it up but to my amazement it took only 24 gallons total to get the truck back to full. Unless my brand new spark plug tester tool isnt working. I don't know if a failed sensor would still give a spark at all or spark at the wrong time. Have you pulled the cap? Pull the distributor cap and look at it.
Then start going through to isolate the problem. Engine cranking do you have a fuel injector pulse? If that is in accessable, remove a valve cover, lay a towel, cloth over the top of the rockers that contact the push rods, unless you like an oil bath,,,ha,ha. Any help would be great. Take the electrical circuit apart one by one and work backward from the plug. The truck was nearly spotless and ran great for the first two weeks which included a 700 mile road trip. If you do this change. Pulled it out of the barn and let it warm up.
You can check to see if the injectors are getting power by probing the red wire to the injectors, with the key on it should be battery + voltage, a common cause of this kind of problem is the ignition starter switch on the top lower part of the steering column. After reading the amps, disconnect the battery and disconnect the multimeter. It was the combo of the O2 sensor and the Temp Sensor together. If the voltage is still zero, your pickup has failed. But my patience is wearing thin. Please help, this is my main means of transportation and can not figure this one out.
A floating ground with him, can really cause you problems. You are jumping to conclusions. Pulled the cap -- it and the rotor looked fine. There's 2 small screews that hold it in place and the electrical wires just unplug. .
I believe I tested the ignition coil wires wrong though. Changed the 02 sensor, gave a complete tune-up. However, I do not think it was the heat as it started first crank essentially and only a minute after I had added it. I looked at your wiring diagram for your engine, didn't see crank sensor. Over time the moisture corrodes the inside of the cap and the truck will run like crap.
Take off the distributor cap and have someone turn the engine over while you eyeball the rotor. If so, use a test light on that terminal, engine cranking, see if the lite pulses? I just did this over the summer on my '91 5. I know that it is a bit long but it reads easy and I am very stumped. There might be other issues. You should hear them clicking.
If it fires up and runs a few seconds, you know it's a gas problem. Disconnect the battery, place the red test lead on the disconnected connector and the black test lead on the switch terminals itself. The other two test run perfect. The only code is 15 temp below -27 degrees for more than 30 seconds I do not know how to reset that code. It goes got with the key on? Took it for a ride, got down the street and it died again.
I read the directions three times. Swap around the identical relays at the fuse box horn relay can usually be used. That means a wire that has a size of 7mm, with a solid core for stock style performance and engine life. It will also have 1 electrical connector on each end of it. Brought it home and it started, lot of black smoke. Hi, I have a 1990 Chevy K2500 5. A crude, quick way to check if switching is occurring is to connect a test light to the white wire and crank the engine.