Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. I wo … uld suggest removing the air cleaner assembly and cleaning the carburetor with carburetor cleaner and then use some liquid wrench on the choke area black in color on the back side of the carb and the metal linkage and cable going to it. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Good luck and have a wonderful day. Before removing the carbs, drain them assuming there is anything in them. Idle adjusting screw set too low. If you use stock everything, and you turn the bleed screws out an additional turn, you will be further leaning-out our idle mixture, which doesn't make any sense to me. I figured since the mid-range jetting is allegedly lean on these, maybe it would help. The engine will be probably be idling very fast.
Both engines received a gear ratio change in the transmission, a better oil pump, and a redesign of the problematic second gear. You may need a mirror to see inside. This was probably found in some of the European market models as well. If you remove any adjusting screws or jets, write down the number of turns it takes for removal and than put each one back the same number of turns. As well the piston cylinder walls received a new glaze that promotes longer engine life and better piston ring wear. Or you can learn to do it yourself.
Below is a diagram of your carb. Check the tubes for leaks or just replace them, they are cheap. Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly. Now wait for a couple of days while the cleaner softens the dried varnish residue in the carbs. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.
Then turn it off and open the hood. The second link recommends a better setting is 2. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system. Other differences include two separate triple tree designs for the 600 and 750 through all years, different heal guard designs for the 98+ models, and slightly different head and engine block designs for the 88-97 models. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes.
Multi carburetors not in sync. Specs and Measurements Page Foreword by. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched. If it won't start because of no fuel, that maybe the problem or it could just be a vaccum leak. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked. Logically, I'm thinking that the stock settings are generally lean. For good measure, I went ahead and shimmed the needles up about.
Idle adjusting screw set too low. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity. Damaged petcock diaphragm allowing fuel to flow through the vacuum line into the combustion chamber. Actually, I'm not sure how the thing even runs stock! That's what I was looking for! The figure shows a cap blocking access to the screw,and there should be one there if someone has not removed italready. I would make a diagram of what hoses attach where and mark each hose. When Suzuki built the 600 and 750 Katanas they approached the task with cost effectiveness in mind. Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt.
Float needle and seat sticking. The idle should be the same. If the air-con is switched on it should pull back and pull the flap more open in order to increase the idle to handle the higher load of the engine through the compressor. You do notneed to remove the air intake tube to see or access the screw, butit is easier to find the screw with the tube off. Part numbers and prices are also shown. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked. After the idle is adjusted to around 850rpm, switch on the air-con.