I took cluster apart and shined a light thru the face cover and no check engine light on it. Have seen this many times. You should feel no excess play. You still need to replace the spark plugs and ignition wires. The one that is closest to the passenger side was changed in combo with him underneath and me from the side of the engine. I assume you have some wires mixed up.
Spark distribution is computer controlled now. Now under hood on top of intake close to front of engine there is what looks like a temp. I don't recall anything additional used to attach it, just the distributor cap screws. Refer to Engine Sight Shield Replacement 4. Most libraries have repair manuals on their automotive shelf section. The prices are reasonable and the computer along with its' wiring will not have to be replaced or altered. Loosen them in an anti clockwise direction.
But as far as leaving the ignition off for a longer period of time, that doesn't work either. Slide the boot down revealing the terminal stud. So be aware of that. Do it one at a time to lessenthe chance of dropping anything in th … e narrow sections. Did you replace the ignition wires? Remove the harness ground bolt at the right rear of the engine block.
Once it's loose the fuse block will still be a tight fit into the firewall. You would need to have a backpressure test done to confirm that. Using J 42371 remove the clutch line from the concentric slave cylinder. Answer: I'm going to assume you meant the 5. The spark plug is underneath. According to this diagram, there might be 3 bolts left instead of 2.
Unless you have a special gapping tool for platinums, regular blade or disc type gappers can damage the platinum tips. Remove the clutch pressure plate and disc, if equipped. Then use the floor jack under the other a-arm in same spot. They are more brittle than the old copper ones. Install an engine hoist to the J 41798.
Place fender covers over both fenders. Remove one coil to gainaccess to each individual spark plug. Tighten Tighten the 4 retaining bolts to 25 Y 18 lb ft. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. Mike :confused:I had the same type issue on a 1995 silverado,after replacing the pump and steering secter to no avail, I noticed a tear in the front axle cv joint boot,remove the axle and found out it would lock up and bind as I tried to swivel it. It makes the job way less painful.
Once i clear the code and turn on the ignition on it comes on. I suggest replacing the engine with a simple Chevy Crate Engine. Open the hose clamp and remove the radiator outlet hose from the water pump. You should replace them in pairs. I can trigger a check engine light scan code and it will come on.
Without having the truck in front of me with a scanner to look at data, I would not just put a computer in it, though, that is an expensive guess. After that, take a screw driver and pop the end of the drive shaft out of the universal joint holder. But, it must be angled the same as the car is if the front of the car is raised for instance. Reposition the harness ground, and auxiliary negative battery cable, if equipped, from the block. I would suggest removing the intake ductwork from the throttle body to give yourself some space to work with.