As to why companies no longer make replacements, I understand that after ten years they are no longer required to stock spares for a given model of car. I checked both front wheel bearings and seemed fine. Looks like the first letters are l73 which likely means 3. What's with all this confusion? Then I thought after the noise got worse, mayby the rear brake shoes were dragging and being noisy. Because the Ford Spec are different I assume that it's a different Viscosity.
For the age and condition of my father's truck, upgrading differential cover probably is a waste. If it is a Traction - Lok differential include 4 ounces. Some noises are hard to pinpoint. That's good work for ya. When I pulled the cover, not much fluid came out. Let set for awhile I usually wait an hour now and then fill with lube. The bearing has 13 bearings.
With a rubberended hammer gently tap on the cover if it is not coming off easy. It also gives me better piece of mind knowing I have the gasket there. They are very durable and adaptable. Would you put an oil pan on without a gasket? I highly recommend using full synthetic gear oil mobil 1. Monte Check with the wrecking yard for low mileage rear end.
Probably will just top off the fluid until it gets worse. Takesome shop rags paper towels not recommended due to fibers leftbehind. Normally you add gear lube until it runs out the hole used to fill it. It seems Ford no longer makes these axles. By hand place the bolts through just enough to keep thebolt in without falling out. I would bet the level was low and the outer bearings were not being lubes. I will go for Mobil1 without friction modifier.
Best part was it was less than half the cost even after shipping. Been cleaning axle tube and anything I can before putting it back together. At that time the noise had become a bump, hit, grind, and may squeal. Get a different axle, open it up and look inside. Im truck now has over 2 million on it. I can understand the bearings bumping and grinding but the squeal I was thinking the outer race started to spin in the housing.
You should have your fluid level with the fill plug hole. Brake line has ruptured on the road from rust once, mechanic replaced only half of the line with incorrect type of coupling used compression union. Standard Differential, Rear Dana 135. I'll probably just build up some ruffstuff housing when I get around too it. The van has 193,000 miles and the left side is still original and ok. After 24 hours, you should be able to torque the bolts down and you should be leak free until you take it off again.
Procedure: Gather Materials: Put truck in park and apply brake. Carrier bearings support the carrier carrier holds the ring gear pinion bearings are on the pinion, which the yoke slips on, then connects to driveshaft, i would bet the bearings are shot in the diff, if it were me i would either rebuild it, or get a boneeyard axle, that entire axle should cost no more than 250. I'm thinking what the he11. . Once the fluids are almostall out go ahead and take out the remaining bolts. I was mistaken before on the bearing count. There may be other ways, but this is the way that I found best.
I didnt add any extra and it seems fine with no chattering evident. I didnt add any extra and it seems fine with no chattering evident. Let it get slightly tacky. Check the truck magazines out for more ideas, no van mags out there anymore. Have them check the interchange book for rearends that are direct fit. Go to a bearing shop not the chain stores to get them, the couple extra dollars are worth the peace of mind.