If you hit it too hard it will warp or bend beyond resurfacing but if you look at a new rotor, there are no other bolts beyond the wheel holding it. It has the original automatic lock outs. No engagement or a light at the shifter. The problem 9 times out of 10 is either the switch in the dash or the servos in the T-case. The fuse box has taken water and there is some green in ther, however, I do not where I can buy a new one? There is a grinding noise and vibration but after lifting off the accelerator it goes away. I guess I should try and manually turn the engine and then look at the sensors. I'm thinking transfer case shift motor.
According to my local Ford dealer the switch is no longer in production lol The nearest one is 100 miles away unless I go to a pull apart which is always a gamble. Went to another Ford dealer directly afterwards, fearing the last parts guys didnt know what he was talking about, and unfortunately got the same exact answer. But recently when I engage the four wheel drive manual locking hubs and the front wheels start to spin, they have power going to the for a second and then I hear a clunk underneath the truck. If it is a manual locking type on a super duty f250, replace thehub. The older Fords with auto hubs used have a sticker on the driver's visor. Both seem to be fine. I don't want to sound stupid here or anything but can someone explain what the lock out hubs do exactly.
My only concern in the back of my mind is that I left it unlocked and if it possible to pour something in the engine to cause it to seize, but I thought it would have to run to chemically seize the engine. The rotors are pressed onto the hubs. There has been problems with the servos and switches, that other people have found out about. Normally both wheels on a single axel revolve at an identical rate. Finally, the front axle collar is engaged and the electromagnetic clutch is deactivated. I guess I want to know if I should change these out to Warn Hubs or something like that?? I had problems with the switch in my 98 Tahoe, replaced the dash mounted switch and works great now.
If it spins, your problem isn't mechanical, it's electrical, I did want you to turn the engine and inspect all teeth on the flywheel, and look also for any cracks. The light come on, but no 4X4. Besides, I'd rather lock my hubs and turn the front diff,knowing that when I need the 4x4 it's gonna be there, instead ofwondering whether the auto locks are going to engage after nothaving been used all summer. Remove center caps with pry bar. The rear wiper relay is in the top row, on the right. This was operated by a vacuum line, when you engaged 4wd a vacuum was applied locking them.
Dec 16, 2010 Had the same problem, so I changed the actuator on the tranfer case. The switch or the module? It ended up being a shift motor? I also pulled the outer hub off and turned the manual switch on and the center locks in so those seem to work. If nothing happens, see if you have power coming down on your wire, a simple testor will work for this. Remove all plugs, see if you can get a socket on the crank, and turn it clockwise. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Super Dutys don't use vaccum lines, all eletrical in your case. They lock andunlock by themselves when you select 4 wheel drive on the dash.
Ensure o-ring is in place on replacement hub … and slide in. It has a fuel pump that feeds the fuel filter and then into the fuel rails. There are 2 wires that control the shift motor. Does that mean it could be the Shift Motor itself? I like my setup, just reach down and pull the lever under muscle power. After the clunk the front wheels no longer have any power and just the back ones spin. Good luck Try this: I ha … ve a ford 1992 windstar and there was a 4th bolt that i didn't see at first. Just clamp a tool on it as a handle and start tapping it sideto side with a hammer while pulling, and it should come out.
Prior to this the 4 heel drive has been trying to engage at around 45 mph. Don't remember exactly, but that was my issue. I checked the dipstick the oil looked fine. Take a look at the above link that Bill posted to the braided line install. This would allow unchecked voltage to fry its way through your swi … tch to power the motor.
Even if you don't go 4x4'n pull off vacuum hoses I. The gearmotor encoder assembly is mounted externally on the transfer case. Typical solution is the vacuum lines to the solenoids or to the vacuum shift motor are cracked or the vacuum shift motor has a cracked diaphragm and has water in it. Dec 26, 2012 4X4 On these issue, there are few solved help links for troubleshooting the issue easily. It has the eletronic control for the 4X4 but manual lockers. I don't understand all I know bout this if you have a dash switch - doesn't that infer there should be an Auto and Lock setting on your hubs? The transfer case is equipped with an electromagnetic clutch which is located inside the case.
The 4wd light stay on when I have it in 4wd and goes off then I put in in 2wd so thats o. The transfer case is equipped with an electromagnetic clutch which is located inside the case. Could it be the transfer case?. If that's the case, the tailgate panel and the inner body panels aroung the tailgate will have to come off to get the harness out for repairs. After reading this material I would not think it was the switch. Now when I try to turn 4 wheel drive on I here an odd sound.
I prefer to fix it myself rather than deal with the dealer and pay out the nose. Could they have done something then? Try looking at it from different angles. I show you how to quickly fix your 4x4 problem on your Ford Superduty. A yellow and an orange. I found a slick spot on a path on a slight incline. I'm sure it's an air leak but since four high works I'll worry about it when that goes out too.