Check engine light came on and was P0108. The rest of the way is a snap. It did end up happening again, but this may have been because of some of these cheap gas stations I go to. A damaged pump lacks the power to push gas from the fuel tank to the engine. I will accept my own answer once I confirm through the winter that the problem got resolved. Using 89 or 91 octane fuel will provide no benefit whatsoever.
Once you've got the flare nut loosened and it will turn freely, you can move on to the banjo bolt. Did some diagnostics myself and took it to the shop. Reason being is that oil will get on it and if its not wipe off then when you run the car you will have a oil burning smell for a while. Before I buy this expensive filter, has anyone done a fuel filter job that is sitting in the fuel tank? Then take your new oil filter and twist on. I too did this repair on my car yesterday, and had a different experience.
In order for your engine and car to perform at its best, it is essential that the fuel is filtered to remove dangerous particles, any rust or dirt that works its way into your fuel can cause problems and damage the engine. When you go to re-start the car, instead of liquid gas, you are spurting on fumes on the rail. Refer to a manual for this. You don't want to mess anything up. Trust, if your complaining about a fuel filter being expensive think about what labor would cost.
If the car won't start, spray starting fluid into the air inlet, at the air cleaner and crank the engine. It's at the back of the fuel rail driver's side. Once you're on it, put a little muscle into it and bust it loose. Don't be afraid to put a little muscle into tightening both sides of the line, but don't get ridiculous. Your battery also needs to be disconnected and reconnected during the process. Go crack open a beer once you get home. The car has 209000 miles and never had any issues.
I believe you need a T-27 torx bit to remove it. I don't know if that would be the same for your car. Before you get dirty with the diagnosis you might want to preemptively replace the fuel pump relay. If you strip it, you're screwed. This is not a job that you want to embark on without sufficient knowledge and the right tools for the job. The problem is fuel boiling in the fuel rail under the intake manifold. The hottest possible place it could have been put.
In case you haven't found it, the fuel filter on the 1994 Accord is located directly below the master cylinder inside the engine compartment. Otherwise move on to the relay. First off, gather your tools. Now, that you've got both fuel lines off or at least loose , you can remove the 10mm bolt that holds the fuel filter bracket to the car. So the answer would be 4. It'll keep draining for quite a while, then it will start to drizzle, then finally dripping. Open up the trunk and look under the mat to the left.
I went though several people about this and confirmed though Honda that they don't have a fuel filter on that model. Here's where my experience was different: I struggled with the 14mm wrench on it for a long time, and could not get it loose. It's normally not necessary to replace this type of filter on a periodic basis; but if you are replacing the fuel pump itself, it is recommended that the fuel filter be changed at that time. Reason being that oil is just going to shot out of there. I then went back and double checked the tightness of the fuel line.
I inquired here about the location of the fuel filter on my 2001 Accord Lx. Now, manipulate the filter and bracket past the master cylinder to remove it from the car. Once you get it to pop, make sure you slide your drain or drip pan under to catch the fuel that might be left over after releasing the fuel pressure. There is a banjo bolt on the top, a flare nut fitted metal brake line on the back, and a bracket holding it in place that has two 10mm bolts in it. If it fires, then check the fuel pump and fuel quantity ground location inside the trunk coming off the wire bundle to the fuel tank.