But many ford owners have gone to bigger battery cables and cleaned their connection to make sure they have every bit of power to go to the starter. You'll know when you hear it if you have the wrong one. I replaced the coil with a new one, but it didn't help. Voltage drop while cranking should be close to zero. If the amp draw goes over 300-400 amps and I have seen them peg my 600 amp gauge before it usually means the starter ids going out. Turn the key to crank and zero noise, no chattering solenoid, no starter engaging or free spinning.
Call our free Tech hotline with any installation questions. The truck has left me stranded a few times. I am sorry you feel that mechanics are potentially out to screw people. You will notice the engine stalls, lacks power or it is hard to start or does not start at all. Sorry didn't mean that the way it sounded.
I replaced the starter as I already had it. If your fuel gauge is working okay you don't need the entire fuel pump assembly, just a pump. At the Toyota dealership a brand new starter was installed because of a no start condition showing no power to the starter and blown fuses for the injectors, fuel pump, and the computer. I thought maybe it is just the return fuel system dumping fuel back in the tank. If it is working normal when they check it you will get normal results. I know that turning the key on and off like 5 times with most likely make it start every time. They still look good besides having gas on them, and you could tell the vehicle had been running a little rich.
Install was quick and easy. I went out and turned the key to the start position put the gear shift in neutral then pushed the vehicle just enough to get it to roll then slammed the gear shift into gear where the car will stop rolling abruptly then put it in park and tried to start it and it started. I began testing the coil, and these are the results I've come up with. I replaced the plugs anyway with Motorcraft Double Platinum, and the wires as well. I'm not a mechanic, so having things fit right the first time are a big plus for me. But many ford owners have gone to bigger battery cables and cleaned their connection to make sure they have every bit of power to go to the starter.
Does it mean I don't need to crawl under and loosen the bolts on the range sensor and adjust? If the codes match, then the vehicle starts. For example, notice when or how the problem occurs: Does it happen when the engine is cold or hot? This starter worked well on my truck for about 6 months, and then died. Needless to say I was disappointed. It works great and took care of the squeal. I just don't get how it drives fine once running but Dam when you turn it off. Amp draw will test the battery and the starter capacity.
You will certainly need to upgrade your stock or worn out. Your Ford Explorer is capable of handling both the city and the country, and its engine is a complex unit with many important components. I just don't get how it drives fine once running but Dam when you turn it off. Wanted all day to get some lumber. Okay guys, here is what I learned this week with my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport when the engine would not crank.
This was a service vehicle so I stopped more than a dozen times a day. A voltage drop test in the wires for the ground and positive battery cables will show connectivity issues. Make sure you have fuel in the tank; maybe the fuel gauge has stopped working. It's worth putting the time and money into it that it will take to make it reliable. As I was driving, it acted as if it ran out of gas when I have a half tank and now it will not start.
The first unit I received must have been damaged whilst bouncing around in the poorly padded package, as the plastic beneath the largest connector broke during installation. Having a slow crank in the beginning then spinning up fast like normal is one sign that the starter is getting worn but as it gets moving it centers up and spins the motor. I took the new starter out and back to the store to have tested and failed. I thought that the switch may have been backing itself off, and was able to confirm this 2 times. Clean connections to the battery to the starter and bigger gauge wire are common fixes.
Does this mean anything to you??. Then you measure from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive cable at the starter. Yes: Go to next numbered step No: Replace or adjust Clutch Pedal Position Switch or Digital Transmission Range Sensor 12. Put the original cap back on. Here at Advance Auto Parts, we work with only top reliable Starter Solenoid product and part brands so you can shop with complete confidence.
I have replaced the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, and the fuel filter. Thank you for your help. Heavy smoke was coming out of the engine compartment so I just stood at a distance. I decided I'd attempt to install another cylinder lock This is the part I thought was damaged and just get a locksmith to re-key it. The battery was replaced with a semi-used battery, and the vehicle still did not start.