Since you have a voltmeter you can verify that power is getting past the switch when the switch contacts close. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The power that was being pulled from the alarm was tapped into the tach wire instead of the constant 12v maybe that could have done something to the ecm? Parts places that cater to the general public, like AutoZone, are unlikely to have anything lower level on the Bill Of Materials than the starter assembly… if even that. Wiggle key while trying to turn key gently. If that does not work, you will have to remove the actual lock. Thanks again any thing would help.
Drill those out and get a new unit. I guess I have to run a few test to see where it could be. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and sent a field supervisor to diagnose the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the vcu needed to be replaced. While driving various speeds, the air bag warning indicator and the check engine light remained illuminated. Both of these have come up in my searching, but not 100% where they are located, or how exactly to test them.
The list below covers many but not all of the newer vehicles that we have to replace the ignition lock cylinders for. I will never own a Toyota again. Your engine isn't revving up and you can't get your car started. The contact stated that the vehicle began to surge for approximately a month before the failure occurred. Now you are telling me I have another recall on this - I cannot go through all this crap again so what are you going to do about it? If a locked steering wheel is the only thing preventing your key from turning the ignition, then follow our instructions below for and you will be back on the road fast.
In her case, someone tried to retro-fit other Toyota alarm systems into a Corolla Toyota Highlander alarm to the Corolla - that alarm has an engine immobilizer feature that is keyed to a chipped key. If your steering wheel is locked, then one of those two directions will be very solid and one direction will be a little springy wheel wants to spring back. If your steering wheel is notlocked, and your key won't turn then do not touch the steering wheel, your problem is 2, 3 or 4 below. So you need to determine if the lock is unlocking when the ignition key is inserted in the lock cylinder and locking when the key is removed. Try jumping the vehicle and if it starts or at least turns over teh problem is a dead cell on the battery. The above should narrow it down. After the vehicle was turned off and the key was removed from the ignition switch, the vehicle independently began to roll and crashed into another vehicle.
Though, since the alarm job was botched in that manner - I would highly recommend pulling the battery off to prevent possible further damage from moving the wiring around in the attempt to find the short. This auto part helps you activate the main electrical system of your vehicle with the turn of a key. Called the dealership etc and they wouldn't do anything about what happened because no recall for my year. Also tested battery - fine. I got in to start it, the key wouldn't turn, the steering wheel wouldn't turn and, of course, I couldn't get it to shift to neutral as the mechanic suggested.
The failure mileage was 100,000. The fire department extinguished the fire. The problem still happened and he decided it must be the starter and we changed that. Unfortunately, you'll have to chase all those wires off the alarm system to make sure they are either completely removed or find where they were tapped off of. I tried to research on this and found out that Toyota issued a technical service bulletin issued on Oct.
To me, it seems like a cable or cable connection. The contact had not experienced a failure. Worn, damaged, or bent key. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for diagnosis. I think there were a few lead wires that were grounded because the installer could not find the correct wires to tap to. I'm going to buy more fuses so I can run a few test and hopefully adding another relay should solve the problem. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repairs.
If I try starting the car without the clutch pressed, the humming noise is not there, which leads me to believe that the switch is working correctly, and the problem lies elsewhere. When you attempt to start your car, the starter relay and ignition system receive a signal when you turn the key. The root of this problem could simply be a busted Toyota Corolla ignition switch. I did not drive that many miles. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine.