Let me state that in over 24 years of driving, I have never been sited for a major traffic accident and have had a perfectly clean driving record for over ten years before all of this. Check the cable to see if it is connected if all is well you could possibly need a new oneIn Ford's. So, now, I am having the problem. He stated that he'd heard that my car was known to do this. Remove the 4 screws that hold the large plastic engine cover in place.
I have found that by sometimes jiggling the wires by pushing them gently into the sensor can solve the problem… It could possibly be a bad vacuum line connection. Recently, I turned the vehicle off and found that the speedometer was stuck at 40. The other one is under the hood inside the relay black box on the drivers side. It appears replacing sensors does not work based on the forums. Then my distributor went out and I replace it and the problem did not come back. It may pop on a minute or so after starting the car, it may come on immediately or it may not come on and the digital display does not even light.
Your vision of the entire thing will be slightly obstructed by a larger bracket but you should e ale to see it from a… My 2007 sedona had the key stuck in the ignition. Drove for a while it picked up to 20 mph. A mechanic had the dash out but said I would need a new instrument cluster. That was 2 weeks ago. If not, drive the vehicle within conditions noted in the freeze frame data or enable conditions. .
After only two weeks the car started with electrical problems; the right head lamp kept burning, the car was at the shop for two weeks for repair. There are 3 little screws that hold it up there. What is strange is that the clock appears to be keeping time even when nothing appears to be working. Remove the two or three screws that hold the extended console trim in place. Drive around for 20 minutes, and all of a sudden, it would come on and work perfectly. However, there is a mess of wiring down there, and I don't have a clue how to find where it is crossing, assuming that's the problem.
My airbags did not deploy. I assume there must be a wire crossing that I am pulling apart by lifting the dash. I did this once before a while ago but don't remember. I would park in sun at work after work speedometer would not work. Would that be a benefit? Vehicle was taken to dealer who stated gas had gotten into an emissions part in the fuel take, stating it was caused from over filling the tank. The compressor never misses a beat on the the back and forth. It is a Ford Ranger with a factory installed radio.
The only other thing would be a defective instrument cluster. I had my car towed back to the Kia dealership who has now had it in their possession for over five days now. When I accelerate and release I hear a loud clicking noise and my speedometer and rpm stop working. Lately, its not turning on. If you cannot see the drain hose feel for it on the floor. Rpms would flare, but car had no power as if engine was not getting fuel. Sometimes after I start the car at first it won't work.
Only once the tachometer didn't work at first. As a result, I removed the drivers side floor mat only to have this same unexplainable acceleration happen to me again at a red light across from a very dangerous intersection approximately two weeks later. I would park in garage and next day working again. In my opinion, the 2004 - 2005 Kia Spectra is an unsafe vehicle and is one episode away from becoming a very tragic accident for someone. Anyone know if any other fixes? The contact owns a 2005 Kia Spectra. I wired the monitor to the existing cables that the old one was connected to. Sometimes it stays on forever, sometimes it cycles on and off all at once about every minute or two.
I start the car and the needle doesn't move. Is my speedometer on its way out or could it be something else? This too is also mentioned many times clearly there is some manufacturer defect. This box has relays, mini relays and fuses. Specification : Infinite Is resistance within the specification? If you need to replace pull the drain from the floor… If done with 2 people and bleeding all four wheels follow these steps: Have car in park and jacked up, keep brake reseviour closed. Vehicle was taken to dealer who stated gas had gotten into an emissions part in the fuel take, stating it was caused from over filling the tank.
Speedometer works for one mile or so mornings only. I have replaced input and output speed sensor, wheel speed sensor and the speed sensor which wires back up to instrument cluster and nothing has fixed the issue. I couldn't figure out why that wire was dead, so I just tapped one of the tail lights and wired the trailer plug. Long story short, new battery and it started up and has been fine besides that speedometer thing. It slides to the right or left, if you slide this in the opposite direction from where it is right now it will allow you to adjust the temperature.
Also when speedometer isn't working the cruise control also will nitwork. Outside the passenger compartment firewall inside the engine compartment under the hood near the driver's side, you might see where the cable comes out and connects to the cable going to the wheel. Again, after each of 3 visits to the dealer, the horn would work for a few months. Let vehicle idle and verify speedometer indicates approx. Keep in mind if the engine light is on and a code is present, there is a problem with the vehicle, and without… There are 2 places one is by the lower left section on the side wall of the driver's side right under the hood release. Once I get below 40 again, it stays at 40 until I stop and flip the dash up.