But be very careful because going wild has cooked lots of engines and engines are expensive to replace. Do you mean the front wheel bearings?? To my knowledge the bearing is not serviceable. Been on this site many times as a non-member and have found a ton of great information. I have a 2000 Z71. Please do contact a qualified auto technician in your area before attempting any work you feel you are not qualified to do. Step 4: There are 2 loctited 21mm head bolts that hold the brake caliper frame to the axle support. Be fairly gentle as you will reuse this.
Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads. The shocks should come with fairly detailed instructions, too. Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. The torque spec for the front wheel lug nuts is 350 ft-lbs, and for the rear wheels it is 450 ft-lbs. I suggest align it better. Step 10: There are four 15mm bolts that hold the hub on.
I guess the fact that the Centerlines weigh only 21 lbs each made me think that they would be more delicate than the heavier oem wheels. You will need to have something ready to support it when you remove the brake assy. I have removed the bearing cap and fixing to remove the bearing lock nut and go to a bearing supply store to try find replacment bearings. Next loosen the lug nuts and raise the Blazer. Use loctite and reinstall the two 21mm bolts.
It too recommends around 90 ft-lbs for a 14mm X 1. Snap the 4 wire holders into the same holes the old one came out of, and reconnect the connector near the shock. Remember-when you first pull out your brakes will need to be pumped to get them back to where they need to be. Naturally, wash and wax it before you sell it. Tighten down the axle nut and washer on the axle. You need to raise and then suppor … t the vehicle using a jack and stand under the frame rail not under the control arm. My wheels are billet aluminum and I'm afraid that 140 ft-lbs might be too much? These are not high torque values.
The paperwork that came with my wheels recommends 95 ft-lbs for 14mm studs, which seems more reasonable. In other words-if you … read what other web pages wrote you would be told to remove the tire, caliper, etc. To start-go to Auto Zone. The last screw in on the very bottom of the whole door panel, you will have to get on your hands and knees to see this one yeah that's it right there. A stocker will not move.
Also turn wheel to get better access. Hold the brake pads apart with your fingers and slide the brake assy onto the rotor. Do not hit the rotor with a steel hammer or you can burr it up. After removing the bracket, remove the Brake rotor. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence shown below for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value.
There are two 18 mm bolts behind the caliper holding it in. There is some electrical tape on the wire holding them together, tear it off. Good video for many makes, models, years. A bit of greas will help. .
Do I know the torques? You can drive pretty far worn bearings without fear of the wheel departing the truck due to the captive design of the unit. This will make it easy to pull the hub off when it's time. Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads no lubricant that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Actually, the bottom two will come out that way and the top one you will need a box wrench. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. It is not a load component. You will see where the three remaining bolts are.