The problem gets worse when applying pressure to the brake or gas pedal. Complaint Number: 10463102 Incident Date: June 15, 2008 Date Added to File: June 26, 2012 Description of the Complaint: Vehicle has occasional flickering headlights. Leaving the vehicle overnight was a good idea. The techs of today that are good are demanding high salaries and are getting top dollar and deserve it. Water leaks on both driver and passenger side, due to welds not being sealed at factory.
Their diagnostic better be something better than the previous four diagnostics performed on it within the last calendar month. I always have the mileage on there. I have not replaced the voltage regulator yet, but I am sure this is the problem. Cleaned the battery terminals and still the same issue. The battery was constantly loosing amps and the vehicle failed to start on one occasion. On drive home multiple electrical problems occurred eventually resulting in loss of all dash board components, radio, power sliding door and service engine light occasionally energizing. The dealer replaced the generator voltage regulator.
The dealer repaired the failures, but they are recurring. Have taken the van to two dealers and they could not duplicate. When the accelerator pedal is not being depressed the headlights dim and the heater motor blower slows down. I attempted to make it an additional 10 miles to a repair facility. Also had a funny feel or lag to the accelerator. It has become an unsafe situation as oncoming traffic think that I am flashing my highbeams at them.
Complaint Number: 10413204 Incident Date: January 8, 2011 Date Added to File: July 17, 2011 Description of the Complaint: Electronic failures: electric door opener on passenger side needed replacement harness due to lack of proper penning and failure to close; occurred jan 2012 in 2006 chevy uplander;. The dealer reprogrammed the power train control module, and replaced power steering. Dealership replaced some alternator fuses or something, which took 3 hours and problem re-occurred the following day, still no interior lights. Still to this date nothing has been done. I was not aware that the replacement procedure was that difficult buty then it is a van.
And after 2 days of driving short distances they could not duplicate the problem. I am having the Charging System Failure warning light come on in my van. The cable was arching, which gave it a weak connection. Driving 60 miles will not reset your lights. So I let my car warm up before I left for work and when I went to leave again it wouldnt start.
When it does start, if your voltage gauge isn't close to the 14v mark or the upper end of the gauge, then your alternator isn't charging. The last thing I would accept would be a shorted battery. The contact owns a 2006 Chevrolet Uplander. How do I solve the problem when I am not comfortable having only had the car 3 weeks now? It definitely sounds like you are experiencing a charging issue. It has been in and out of service since purchase, november of 2007.
If that works, step three will be to replace the van asap. After 2 and a half weeks of owning the vehicle and 750 miles on the vehicle I went on a trip to houston, tx with my 2 year old. The flickering lights could be a result of a faulty computer voltage regulation, in that the alternator no longer regulates voltage, this is a very big issue because is not only distract the driver but to oncoming traffic as well. Repair shop knows my name now. Still think you have a battery issue bad or shorted at times. The rattle in the back, and the horn that works when it chooses to. The failure mileage was 129,000.
Both problem can be very hazardous in night time highway driving. I am like you however when I have to pay to have something done to my vehicles, that I cannot due because of my back, I complain more so because it makes me feel better but I really don't expect anyone to listen or to change anything. The failure mileage was 23,666 and current mileage was 49,376. This has happened more than once but I'll list the last time below. The dealer has taken a position that no more diagnostic work will be performed to the front end until I replace a cupped tire their opinion.
About 30 minutes after the last 'Battery Saver Activated', things got much worse. A test drive with test equipment hooked up should be one of the tests they do. It has ran fine for the most part now, but it still dies out from time to time. First time poster and thanks! I suspect that this is a placement problem causing excessive heat buildup. You can use anything you have on hand.