The noise has a bit of rumbling to it, which grows continually, and does come with a bit of a vibration as the wheels are no longer spinning easily on the axle. The rear diff developed noise after routine maintenance, a fluid change, last July which lead to replacement of clutch packs. So far I got a new axle shaft bearing, an axle shaft seal, and a new differential cover gasket. Take a palmful of bearing grease in one hand, and grasp a new inner bearing in the other hand, and shove the grease into the seams of the bearing, filling all the rollers. I amputated the connection from the alarm to the horns so it won't wake the neighbors up if a door switch goes bad. Estimated pricing is based on the estimated time for the repair, the estimated range of labor rates based on the region in which the repair will take place, and the estimated range of price of the base parts needed for the repair. Some of this is axle specific, but many of the general items apply to every gear change: At this point I would really just find an axle from a junk yard that would bolt right up.
I understand the whole thing now and what the pinion gear is and the ring gear and so forth that I keep seeing references to. I got it at Autozone, and assumed it was a proper retrofit. With age and wear, the bearings eventually fail to rotate the wheel effectively, which leads to tire wear and suspension problems. After finishing the bearing replacement, place the wheels back on the hubs and screw them on with a tire iron, only snug-tight. Flip the rotor over and seat the new outer race into the hub the same way, tapping it gently down into its seat with the hammer and punch.
Slip the caliper off the rotor and tie it to the frame with a bungee cord to support its weight. I was afraid that I was gonna try it, give up and take it to a gear shop anyways. There's no other way for me. Install the two long caliper bolts and tighten them with a socket. Have experienced no issues with transmission or radiator and, in general, the unit performs very well.
I think I would actually try to do it if I had a secondary vehicle for transportation. I had transmission and brake fluid renewed 120K and all struts renewed 125K. There's a lot of special tools and processes that I will admit is way too big of a job for me to handle. Glad you got it all sorted out though before you got too far into it. Pull the hub and rotor off the spindle.
Hi All, New member here and proud new owner a few months ago of a 98 Ranger. Plus you could get an 8. Each unit is made from tough and premium components for maximum durability. Seafoam fixed the gas gauge problem. It's a shame the hardening came off the inner cone on this one otherwise in theory it should have lasted for a lot longer than 170000km. Tighten the bolts with a socket.
Thanks, -Nigel I'm looking to replace my rear wheel bearings since I'm doing my rear drum brakes on my 2. Use channel locks to remove the dust cover cap on the hub. The Haynes manual is showing a totally different end on the puller: I don't have any experience working inside the rear axle but I have this link that may help your issue. Watch the video and see. Any shimmying or wiggling of the wheel may possibly be contributed to problems with the 11 Ford Ranger wheels bearings and should be checked out as soon as possible.
Unscrew the castellated nut with the channel locks and pull the spacer and outer bearing out of its seat. I don't have any transportation. After reading that I feel very disconcerted now. Flip the rotor again, so the inner bearing surface faces up. Replacing, or fixing 11 Ford Ranger wheel bearings is a very labor intensive job.
Vehicle repair costs may vary from vehicle to vehicle. I also started soaking the relevant parts with Rust Buster today. I changed the rear bearing of my explorer myself. This means that when they are in the factory they are pressed together and sealed from the elements, as well as sealing in high temperature 2011 Ford Ranger wheel bearings grease to help ensure the 11 Ford Ranger wheel bearings stay lubricated and as cool as possible. Also this may help too.
It whines on acceleration and has a brushing sound coasting. You will need a few specialized tools dial indicator, bearing puller etc. Set a new grease seal over the hub lip and tap in down with a hammer so it sits flush. Getting the bolts out is extremely difficult because of the gear. Wheels have to be removed and taken apart, not to mention the fixing or replacing of the actual 2011 Ford Ranger wheel bearings, then of course the re-assembly of the wheel. I use my truck for my job and I don't have the time to mess with it.
Which is not easy to do either as the size of the housing the bearing is in is quite small and not designed to be rebuilt, no lip to push the outer race of the bearing out of it, if a replacement bearing was found you will need to cut through the outer to release it and push it out. None of the solutions to the symptoms mentioned anything about bad axle shaft bearings. Everything was in the differential itself. Will I need a different end attachment or will I even need this puller? Place the caliper frame over the rotor and install the bolts. Moog manufactures all over the world, you may get China, you may get Taiwan, you may get Mexico, you may get Canada. The Haynes manual says those sound variations usually indicate bad axle shaft bearings. I've done the front assemblies, but would like to only replace the two pieces for each side shown in the video.