Just make sure to bleed the system once the new one is in. At the last oil change Approx 75000miles the clutch fluid was low at the minimum level on the reservoir. . A little overkill, but something to consider. It is shared between several friends, so the fluid gets used up quickly and doesn't sit around for long periods of time. It sounds like the kind of thing that should be quite straightforward but might land me in a world of pain if it goes wrong! If you pump the clutch pedal rapidly, you'll froth the fluid and airlock the system. There's no question about it, unfortunately.
I'm less concerned about that for the clutch though because there's only a single line to bleed. I just dont want to redo the process again Do that, and go with a short interval before you bleed again. Well took it to my local indie, and he had a good look all over the pedal incase master cylinder seeping, bone dry, nothing under the car, and fluid is only dropping very slightly so it must be a tiny leak but could go at any time. Its a good fluid to use though. That's really the best one could tell you with the info you've provided unless you can physically find the leak. Also, why would you not want as high a boiling point as you can get given how easily our cars boil clutch fluid? Some people address it during the tuning, opening the fuel injectors longer to make up for the lower fuel pressure.
Either way, I would be happy for them to chime with their Ok, you should be fine. I'd gravity bleed the system first by filling the reservoir with fluid, get under the car and open the bleed screw. Post pictures, share modifications, ask questions and discuss your love for the most important letter in the alphabet. The Nissan manual makes it sounds easy!! Any help or advice would be much appreciated as repair to any of this is going to be costly. So what do you think if I turkey baster remove the dot 3 from just the reservoir and add in some dot 4? Now that the drivetrain was installed, it was time to make it run.
The clutch fluid gets contaminated pretty quickly I've found, so flushing it regularly is more important than using a brand new container each time. Get it checked underneath and definitely get it flushed next service. It'll be quite some time for gravity to start pulling all the fluid out. Mount the new cylinder and attach the pedal assembly. Adding a new master adds air to the system.
Lots of air in the system with the clutch pedal just falling to the floor. When fluid stops flowing, close nipple. At bottom of travel, got him to close it. Now the master cylinder part is flushed through, now work on flushing out the slave cylinder 8. If you are looking at a particular posting for a car feel free to submit it to open up discussion on that particular model. I just dont want to redo the process again Yeah I agree.
You will have to get under the car to bleed the clutch system. Should not be bound by clutch pedal, leave pin removed step 2, check clutch pedal stroke for free range movement, with the clevis pin removed, manually move the clutch pedal up and down to determine it moves freely. With the hydraulic problems these things have, why do anything but the best? You'll see a hard line come out of it and a little nipple covered with a rubber cap. We don't really estimate cost of repairs here. Now would be a good time to adjust your pedal by moving that if you want a shorter travel. This would be a teflon inner liner, surrounded by a sealed stainless braid. Kept an eye on it and must have a leak as its dropped again, having a look at master cylinder can't see anything, where does the fluid line meet the clutch housing can it be seen without going under the car? Looking into buying a 350z? Once you open the bottle, it starts absorbing water.
Without full knowledge of the product I don't want to tell a lie, but I would have to assume looking at it it is made from the same line material that brake lines are. That being said, I opened it about a month ago, and it will be gone in the next month. In my searching, I have found very little detailed information about different clutch fluids that can be used in the Z. The bonus in all of this, however? So gonna be about £700 lighter this month, but at least she will be fixed. Without full knowledge of the product I don't want to tell a lie, but I would have to assume looking at it it is made from the same line material that brake lines are. I'm going to take it to local indie and get them to fix it as its not something I'd be happy doing on an engine this size I.
I have owned my Z since new and have had no issues outside of the slave cylinder recall right after purchase. Also, why would you not want as high a boiling point as you can get given how easily our cars boil clutch fluid? Don't worry too much about it. After installing the clutch interlock switch, adjust the switch position, monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty, never spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces, power bleeder will not purge all the air system. Keep checking reservoir is topped up 7. The temperature difference is only about 45 degrees however, so I really doubt that it would end up doing damage going with Dot 3. I've always used Motul for brakes and clutches. The standard length, adjust position of clevis push rod, install packing and master cylinder assembly and tighten mounting nuts to the specified torque, connect clutch tube to master cylinder assembly and temporarily tighten flare nut.