The change was due to needing a faster engagement from the actuator. Motor oils arestandardized by common viscosities, as are oil f … ilter part numbers. That will damage the thread Swing the carrier upwards and you should have just enough free space to pull the shaft from the hub carrier. When the front axle is locked, you can disengage the passenger side in order to make turns without wheel hop. Had a new iac put into it and that seemed to do the trick. Attach test light to ground and backprobe Light Blue wire terminal of disconnected front axle solenoid. You could probably hot wire it and run a lead down from the battery.
Most likely it is clogged. The car engine had none of these special parts in them. Yes I didn't figure it would be too pretty, I remember the issues you had with it a couple seasons ago. If this stops the lights from flashing, and you are getting the signal to the actuator, then I would suggest a bad actuator. . Well I found this thread a little late to help some of you, but if possible replace the thermal actuator with the motored one. You could also check the continuity of the actuator.
I can hear the switchs or relays in the dash when the 4wd bottons are pressed but I havn't went into the dash and checked them. Remove T-case 20 amp fuse. I'm not sure if its exactly the same with the push button, but there should be a plug on the transfer case that runs up to the actuator. Both front wheels are now engaged and pulling the vehicle. I'm no mechanic, so I really don't have any idea what to check for. Test front axle solenoid power circuit.
This is the switch you are talking about. I suppose I can run a wire around the 4wd fuse to check the switches and acutaor to narrow down a potential source of the problem. Ive had this blazer for about a month now its got about 25000 km on a new motor and the gas mileage has been terrible 9 -10 mpg average its alittle hard to start turns over quite a few times before starting but other then that it runs good and no codes. Do you think that it could also be the other switch on the hoghead. It should have some resistance, probably like a fuel injector or similar, possibly 10 to 20 ohms I would guess. It's eating to much gas right now and i don't like the front wheels grabbing when i try to turn it in a parking lot. The T-Case operates off of the stock switch Yes I was referring to the switch on the T-case that sends the command forward to operate the axle actuator.
If this doesn't help then I will get my brother to discribe it better tomorrow he knows what all of name of these parts are. Will the black connector for the axle actuator slide off of this steel mount? So, to try and get that axle in, they were prying the hell out of stuff to get it in. Need to go over the old harness first to see what needs addressed or repaired before even thinking of making any changes. Looking through my haynes manual, there is a transfer case control module located to the left of the instrument cluster behind the headlight switch. The problem with the service information that I am referencing, is it gives no component location description or views.
Cheers, When I press the 4wdh or 4wdL I can hear and feel the transfer shift. I've determined that the problem is eletrical and not mechanical. What do you think is going on with the flashing switchs. Sep 23, 2009 First thing to make sure of is to check for a blown fuse. If so, proceed to next step. When installed properly, this mechanism helps the vehicle adapt to different road and driving conditions right there and then. I was getting around 6 volts on one and around 8volts on the other one.
So what do you think. You can get a new one at a parts store Napa but they arent cheap. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case. It just seems to be 4-wheel drive specific. And also the shift linkage and shift levers on transfer case. The wire colors at the actuator should be light blue, and black, is that correct? As said the front Axel actuator is a problem are. If you took the passanger side axel out of the housing, Then a big flat shim has fallen out on you and down in the housing.
The wires both look black or dark blue to me I could not tell, But there is not a light blue wire. Thanks Lee Another question would the tps have anything to do with this porblem of 2 much fuel vs air. Just a better design or are the front diffs different yielding the change in actuators? It was dead I could not get it to do anything. In doing so, it actually caused a thrust washer on the inside of the 4-wheel drive housing where the pin engages the gear to slip off. Testing and repairing at the T-case is no problem but at the diff appears will take a little more work. With a 1-year, unlimited mileage warranty, this part is highly reliable. Brake Input battery voltage when brake is depress, open circuit when not activated.
Tire weight is a huge factor in gas mileage; use a tall, lighter tire load range B unless you need a heavy Load range C,D for what you use the truck for. And the axels are locked when in auto but the transfer case isn't unless the wheels spin right? I have been trying to find out why my 4x4 is not working for weeks. I may replace it when I get time. There is an updated actuator you can get which is mechanical versus hydraulic. Repeat till the correct measurement is achieved.
When I take the old axle actuator out, it appears the wire will twist around and around unless I can get the connector off the mount. Turn ignition switch to On position. Sorry I can't discribe it better. Thanks for the replies and suggestions. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.