I have not tested the fuel pressure which I am doing tomorrow have to buy a pressure gauge. It should come on when you turn the key on and quit. I thought it was flooded, so I tried starting it with the pedal all the way down, but that didn't help at all. Check for codes in the power-train control module. A new dist tributor rotor turned out to be shorting out inside the cap. You can have spark, but the plugs may not be firing at the proper time. I just had a major tune up done less than a year ago with new spark plugs, new timing belts, new fuel and water pump, everything.
I don't know, but its running. The fuel pressure regulator was bad, would not hold pressure in the rail, bleed off to 15 psi over a 1 second. I have tested the main relay, tested for spark, and checked the main relay wiring harness. Me and my dad replaced the radiator, and discovered water was leaking into the engine, it occasionally ran a little rough on start, but. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F.
Or is it kind of a degenerative problem, where the car slowly deteriorates? You can see the hose coming down from the throttle body. I can hear the new fuel pump operating now. This will make it easier to remove the plugs next time around. Disconnect battery negative terminal everytime you work any electrical component. Mar 01, 2010 The distributor is driven directly by the camshaft.
It cranks just fine with a normal starting sound, but nothing else happens. This happens most often when the car is overheated, and it's something the novice can certainly. Thanks, StephenMain relay is the key,tap on it lightly while cranking and see if there is a change. Sorensen igniters I have seen. . The silicone grease assists in heat transfer.
Could it be the main relay? This relay can be found at local parts stores. I have an 88 Honda that has the horn fuse under the hood along with some of the relays. I put in a new battery and tried to start it. The coil can be checked quickly by removing the cap of the distributor and checking the negative side of the coil with a test light. Walker Products supplies the automotive aftermarket with premium engine sensors and fuel system components. Next to 3 is the cord number 4 and the last one is number 2.
I have seen this before but the spark was so strong testing it that I did not look that hard at it. It started and ran very reough for about 10 seconds. If there is battery voltage, proceed to step 5. Ideally, try and substitute a known-good distributor. I've written a tutorial that'll show you in a step-by-step manner and you can find it here: at: easyautodiagnostics. It died as I was driving down the road the other day and acted like it was out of gas. .
Any suggestions on helping me diagnose and repair this problem? I have fuel and fuel pressure. I am having the same problem! Other note is that the ignition switch can be a bit sticky at times. Other Causes of a no-Spark Engine There are three primary things that will keep the engine from getting a spark: A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter, and a bad distributor. While standing in front of right wheel you will see the distributor cap in front of you. The end of the camshaft contains a set of grooves that engage the distributor shaft.
In fact, John Taylor, the founder, is the actual inventor of modern battery cables still in use around the world today. Am I wrong in this assumption? The timing was set prior to it breaking. When it went out before hand, it would crank and start, but would only continue running if I held the key in the start position. I've checked all the fuses and they're all fine. My guess is still that it is a relay or something similar controller maybe, something to this effect.
I went through the tests. I have never had a problem with this car before. I plan on replacing the main relay regardless as the car has approximately 145,000 miles on it and it has not been replaced. It turned out that the spark plugs weren't firing. Am I on the right track or is there something else I should do? It started up with the coil pack pulled out.