If you are planing on trading it before you get to 100,000 miles, it is of little importance. Some places list it as a blend if it has 1% synthetic and 99% regular not very synthetic. I went to the local Toyota dealer for some , an filter and sump plug sealing washer on Saturday morning and interestingly this is exactly what they gave me Toyota semi synthetic 10W 40. Like Toyota oil can only get at the dealer, and thinking if its a dealers product, it has to be better than the rest, same goes for Mobile, Amsoil, or any other brand that can not be gotten in public. Perhaps I may decide on a 0w-30. We recommend wearing safety glasses whenever you are working under your Corolla.
The door is located down the car, but you have to be careful because you have to drain the oil first and then remove the door. I know that no one here would make that mistake, but it might be useful information for someone. Following up, I just want to confirm the above. What filter should i use, should i go for any or branded? I will probably follow their recommended specifications, but I could be converted to 0w-30. Wix and Napa Gold are also good, but have a different drainback valve design. The best thing to do in this case is to actually drive a little longer.
Put the key in the ignition, and turn forward all the way just before cranking. Typically one is higher than the other. Except in this case the advertising ethics people have given their approval. Start the bottom bolt; tighten it up all the way. Alos part of fully synthetic? Even though this oil is supposed to go 15,000 miles, I plan on changing the oil after 5,000 for warrantee reasons and because it's a brand new engine. Keep turning the bolt counter-clockwise until you can move the alternator enough to remove the belt from the alternator pulley. Disconnect the two rubber hoses on the top of the air canister one large, one small.
Loosen the top starter bolt 14mm. I trust Him more than I do the Designers at Toyota. Loosen the clamp bolt 10mm be careful as there is a non-captive nut that will drop if you remove the bolt completely and slide the air canister out. I went down the 10w 40 route semi synthetic. It took me about 2 hours. As there are soo many variables in engine type, it's almost impossible to tell, oil volume, or which type filter. There is hydrodynamic lubrication requires motion and hydrostatic separated by pressure If the oil film is less than the microscopic surface irregularities this is known as partial film, or boundary layer lubrication.
Loosen the bottom starter bolt 14mm and remove it completely. Shouldn't need another one for another 150,000 miles! The oil will be fine for a daily driver as they motors don't spin a lot of rpms and cook the oil like my old civic with a b16a that would see 6000-8400 rpms to keep it in vtec. If you sit in a traffic jam several times a day, then it does apply. If you want to get 300,000 miles out of your corolla, then this is an important issue. Be careful not to damage any other hoses! If you are having problems with the transmission in your Corolla, such as clunky shifting or hesitation, check the fluid level first - it is amazing how many drivers pay thousands of dollars for transmission work when a half quart of transmission fluid would have fixed the problem.
Do not let me persuade you to do the same, unless you see wisdom in my decision. This will push the alternator away from the engine, tightening the belt. The information provided herein is a reference provided to you at no charge. There is also a theory that short driving trips are better with synthetic. Drain the rest of the oil that… this is howOn the transmission itself there are two plugs. The Drain plug is the lower one, and the fill plug is the higher one.
I think that it's the same process. Had to replace the whole pan and Toyota wouldn't fess up to their mistake! I will change my oil and filter at 5,000 miles and let Toyota Change my oil at 10,000 miles. If you look in your owner's manual it basically states to use 0w20 unless it is not available in which case you can then use 5w20. I was able to squeeze it under heater hoses and through other hoses. Don't try to remove the clip from or insert the clip into the handle while the wire is in it - it's too hard.
Choosing synthetic or regular motor oil depends on a few things. Insert the wire through the clip and swivel it around so that it clamps on to the horizontal part of the wire. This little difference in viscosity could make a difference at extra hot temperatures, say sustained 70 mph or lengthy stop n go city traffic -both while outside air temp is above 85 F. Take out the air filter. The company line seems to include Teflon Build-up. I know that the oil may last longer but one of the most important things it does is clean the engine and gather contaminants.
Until recently the oil specified by Toyota was 5W-30. He looked this up on his Toyota computer. Sounds like after I recieve my first two complimentary oil changes I should switch over to the 0W-30, at least for summer driving. The battery voltage should be 12 volts or greater. Remove the old handle and assembly and replace it with the new one.