There is an opening on the other side of the carbon canister that seems to fit the tube, but that would seem to create a loop canister to solenoid to valve to canister. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? We had something like that happen with an AeroStar and I wrote a friend all upset about it. If what I suspect is correct, there are 4 tubes appearing to connect to the canister, but only two of them actually feed into it. Or sometimes it can be set if the gas tank cap isn't on tight. Hard starting i spray starting fluid and it will start for 4 to 6 sec and died off again,the battery is new i have gas so what could be the problem? That allows fresh air into the canister. The other way to clear the computer after replacing what is believed to be the problem is the engine has to be cycled, started 10 to 15 times from cold to full warm condition. This is a code for the evaporative system which includes a black plastic container in the front of the engine comopartment that has hoses going to the tank and the throtle body.
Could it be a bad gas cap? First jack the truck and put it on stands. Replaced the Purge Flow Sensor and associated hoses. Personal Experiences: I had the same code on my 96 Ranger 4. Sometimes it works then slowly starts dropping until it gets to empty. How do you know if a canister is still alright? Also check for a possible purge flow sensor harness signal that may be shorted to power ground. The purge flow sensor was bad. When you fill your car with gas, the vapors in the tank get forced into a canister filled with activated charcoal.
It might take an hour or more of driving for the sensor to reset before i … t starts sending data to the computer. When you put it back on it should reset the computer and see if the light goes out the next time you start the car. So, the P1443 code can occur when any of the valves, flow sensor, or vacuum lines fail in the evaporative emission control system Answer. I had my 96 Ranger to a local mechanic who ran a smoke test on the system. The photos are examples of the vacuum circuit connect via hoses. Spray carb cleaner into the valve also while doing this.
Every thing else is pretty much a bolt up deal. Of course, the experts will say you must have special seal drivers and bearing race drivers, but I've been fixing my Fords for 40 years and I have done several of these with what I had laying around. Try not to damage it. I've tested the Purge solonoid, it works. Just in case, where is the actuator for the door that directs the air flow either to the dash vents or defroster vents etc? It likes to either run at 400 or 2200 rpm.
It sounds like not fuel is getting to the engine. I had it scanned at Auto Zone. The fuel pump was replaced about 2 years ago. Maybe that's why some of us retire to golf carts. Check the wiring harness issues discussed above. One will go towards the engine, follow that one along until you find the control valve that it attaches to, that's the valve that's not operating. The actual emissions vacuum tube routing should be on a sticker under the hood somewhere.
With a warm engine the valve should open intermittently when engine revs rise to about 1500 bulb will light. Check for damaged wiring as described above. The code does not mean that any part needs replacing. The fuel tank is very pressurized and there is a constant bubbling heard in the fuel in the tank with the gas cap removed. I replaced it with one from a junk 95 Taurus I had on hand. P1443 is the code indicated. This is a very common problem amongst alot of the newer vehicles most of the time it is not actually a problem with the emission control system, usually it is caused by just simply not tightening the gas tank cap.
I've tested the Purge solonoid, it works. If not, a giant channel lock will roughly do the job. Upon removing the caliper, the brake pads can be pulled right off. First I found very old fuel hose before Canister I have replaced it but it didn't reset the check engin light. Changed the gas cap, that did not help. So you have to refer to the factory legends to learn the identification symbols and then refer back to circuit diagrams to find the splice and ground locations. When you find the problem it'll be a feeling of some sort of achievement! If I were to do this again, I would replace the items in the order of cheapest to most expensive, starting with vacuum tube, then the dammded proprietary hose, then the valve assembly.
But the charcoal can only hold so much vapor. But Please check all else first mabey I just had rough luck with starters. Finally, check for damaged wiring as described above. They use no-volitile … memory now and have to be cleard in two ways. I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. First off their is 3 bolts holding it on. Also check the hose thats behind this mounting to ensure is not clogged.