Yours is a similar setup. The manual can walk you through step by step on item location and repair techniques. Very few problems but I don't want to invest in a lot of repairs. It almost sound like springs of some sort. Make sure your transfer case is full of the proper oil and that the driveshafts are not loose at all. A vacuum leak on what? The vacuum actuator is removed from the front axle tube. I have a 2004 S 10 Blazer and I am on my 6th transfer case Encoder Motor and now I push the buttons from 2 Hi to 4 Hi and apparently my push buttons are lighting up as both 4 Hi and 4Low at the same time.
If yours has electronic four wheel drive, the electric acutator could be out or going out. On top of the vacuum switch is a rubber adaptor that the lines connect to. They are famous for water intrusion thru the heater system. Sounds a little like the tire is rubbing on something, only the noise sounds faster than the tire is spinning and the tire is not hitting anything that I can see. What do you guys think the problem might be? I am about to try this myself after reading similar forums which led me to try out myself.
No more pushing a button and hoping your 4-wheel drive engages. However, one of the lines was not connected, so I do not know where to send it. Have someone watch while you shift into 4wd to see if the cable is pulled. If there is then check to see if the actuator is torn actuator looks like a cruse control actuator or the cable to the front diff is stuck. Just pull the battery and take it out and inspect it. Well if it is a noise in the transfer case or the front differential it may change or even go away when you switch from 2 to 4 wheel drive. Spray the rest of the vacuum line system after replacing any faulty lines and tees you discovered in steps 1 or 2.
I knew it was had to be something in the transfer case vacuum switch because I hooked a vacuum line directly to my actuator and it worked. This vacuum system is prone to failure due to frozen diaphragm, loss of vacuum, hard or cracked vacuum hoses, or complete loss of vacuum lines. I've been too busy to look into this lately, but if anybody has any input it would be appreciated! Someone told me there might be a vacuum leak, but I need more information. The manifold itself will remain an issue regardless of engine temperature in most cases. Ken the v6 is a 2.
I've never had luck glueing a broken one back on. So besides under the hood where else can I get one? Thanks, Nick Thanks for the advice- I will check the vaccume switch on top of the transfercase and see what happens- the noise I hear is not too terrible of a grinding noise, so hopefully I can fix this before I ruin those gears. Ask person in the tech section for auto manuals. The seals in the transfer case vacuum switch are leaking. It is located on the side of the transfer case on the drivers side. Check there to see if there is vacuum coming to it when in gear. Thanks- Nick does this stuff also apply to the autotrac transfer case, or do i have a different setup? Transmission fluid is sucked past the transmission rear seal, and the transfer case front seal.
Transmission fluid deteroirates rubber rather quickly and all of those parts contain rubber. There also is a noise that shows up every once in a while now at hwy speeds when I start to slow down. If it is making the noises and you put it into 4 High does the sound change? Thanks, Nick Check all your vac hoses for leaks and cracks as a matter of course. If you can help me I would greatly appreciate it. I disconected the plug in to the diff as per a friends advice and this stopped the problem. No problem until a week or so ago.
I replaced all the vacuum lines and the vacuum switch. A flapper in the under-dash ducting allowed or blocked the hot water heated air to flow pretty undependable if true. Finally, a vacuum leak can be caused by a few other things but they may not be detrimental enough to cause the 4wd to not engage. But you don't have the vac actuator on the transfer case as it's all wheel drive. I replaced the dash push buttons when I bought it as they we're broke and also the fuse for the dash lights 3. It also should have a T in it that hooks up to a line that comes from the top of the transfer case.
Parts 7 through 22 are all involved with engaging the axle: Might be worth while to take it apart and check to be sure. I noticed that the actuator was still collapsing some but not enough. Parts 7 through 22 are all involved with engaging the axle: Might be worth while to take it apart and check to be sure. It almost sounds like the 4 wheel drive isn't fully disengaged. Changed it and sound was gone and shifted even easier. I can go a day or two without hearing anything, then ill hear it all day long and it can be loud. Does anybody have a picture or diagram of where this vacuum reconnects to??? I have replaced the 3 lines.