If the encoder Signal Voltage is going low, check the 5 Volt Reference and Encoder Signal circuits for an open or high resistance. I told them not to do the repair, that I wanted to do some research on it before proceeding. Experience also says if I tell 100 customers I couldn't reproduce their problem so whatever I do is a guess that 90 are going to be pissed. Check with the tyre manufacturer for a more specific time frame. There was no need to remove the driveshaft and no need for reprograming afterwards.
Ensure these grounds are secure and perform a voltage drop test and record the readings for these grounds. Thanks to those of you who posted previously!! I had already read this post and I figured I could do it myself and just replace the sensor like one of the earlier posters advised. The encoder motor sensor issue seems to afflict 2004-2005s. I found that the encoder locking circuit did not have voltage when it should have voltage is applied to the locking circuit to engage a solenoid within the encoder which releases the lock and let's the encoder turn. Your battery may be failing if you notice starting or slow cranking issues. We may not have this issue either.
I got the 4wd scanned and it gave me the same code c0327. Not even eBay nearest parts shop is about a forty five minute drive and long distance calling so I was wondering if anyone could tell me the location, average price I am looking at for this part? I cleaned the grounds that are on the frame underneath the driver door. Especially since they have the Tahoe in their shop already swapping the motor long story. Remove and clean any material that may cause high resistance in the circuit i. The harness was nearly impossible to trace, and I soon gave up and ran a new wire cut at both ends and soldered in new wire , which quickly solved my problem.
Anyway, I wanted to watch the video that showed how to replace the sensor, but when I click it it just takes me to an opening video and I can't find the one I want. This whole thread just made my day to see that it's cheap and it'll be easy to do myself. I have been looking online for a few days now but cannot find anywhere to purchase it. If I replace the sensor, is this going to solve my problem? Edited August 19, 2008 by 5Alive Did you do the repair yourself? C0327 Gmc Canyon engine diagnostic code is about in terms of how often you should get your tyres rotated, it's different for every vehicle and type of tyre, but having them rotated at every oil change is a good rule of thumb. Thanks for your help sir! If a single clamp boot, then you can disconnect it from the groove on the transfer case output shaft once the front drive axle shaft end is partially lowered, as you are pulling the splined shaft out of the case. With wheels scotched and trans in neutral, you should be able to shift the t-case wtih an adjustable wrench.
Thanks to someone on another site sending some wiring schematics of the transfer case wiring, I was able to do some testing with a multi-meter and locate my problem, which turned out to be a bad wire that provides power to the encoder lock circuit. I just put the front of the truck on ramps and crawled underneath. There is no solid fact behind that caution, other than the clocking mojo that is inside the encoder and front drive line actuators. Sounded expensive to me, and with it now out of warranty, I wasn't looking forward to the next inevitible failure. Remove and clean any material that may cause high resistance in the circuit i. Finally, the operation can begin.
Lubes up the Gasket inside. The shim on the output gear can be saved and reused. Short cuts seem to be the norm at most dealerships. It took all of 90 minutes from start to finish. Seat the wire harness into the channel, and put the shim you took off earlier back on to the output shaft gear.
I've been told not to connect the wiring or try to turn the encoder without it being installed, is there any other way to get the shaft to line up? There may be two clamps on the boot to crimp. This sounds like a cover my ass warning. Is it simply removing the motor from the transfer case, disassembling, replacing the sensor, and re-assembling? Tried it with my new encoder, again motor hummed but encoder didn't run. They can also better assure themselves that you won't be a come-back in case the sensor change didn't work. When I check for voltage at the encoder motor wiring harness I'm only getting a reading of 4V with the ignition on nothing when ignition off. Reinstall the encoder motor reusing the same 3 bolts, and connect the two wire harnesses you unplugged earlier.
So I'm steering away from replacing the switch. They insisted that the whole motor needed to be replaced and would not budge from their position. Is there a place I can check continuity on these wires or any other way to test any of the components? Remove the double clamped boot clamps at the transfer case side first, but when it comes to actually removing the driveshaft itself, drop it at the front axle yoke side first. Can anyone provide a wiring schematic that shows the wiring between the Tcase control module and encoder? No shifting into 4h or auto 4 on it own. A friend put me in touch with a reputable transmission shop, after telling them the trouble I was having getting the encoder installed they quickly explained what had happened.
When the old encoder came off, the T case shaft had pressure on it, and turned when the encoder came off. I'm assuming you disconnected your battery negative before repairs. The tough polypropylene case and cover extends service life while the reinforced internal design resists vibrations in heavy-duty use. Remember to align the shaft with the reference marks you made prior to removal. Once you remove the encoder motor cover, there is an orange rubber seal inside the cover that is also to be discarded and replaced with a new one. If no concerns have been found with the above checks, replace the encoder sensor. Hi, I have been searching awhile and finally came upon this post.
Now you can remove the encoder motor assembly. If you have a single clamp boot, you'll do the same thing without the first clamp. Only two things I would add. I think the encoder motor is like a clock. The install should be easy but I've run into a snag. As a follow-up to my original post. The module had power but the lock circuit didn't.