Now do the same with the other screw. E Remove the float from the liquid and slowly rotate to eliminate any bubbles. Then stop cranking, pump the footfeed 3 or 4 times, release it, and then reattempt to start the engine. Installing the link backwards will result in the necessity of much greater pressure to depress the footfeed, and also premature failure of the accelerator pump. This restriction retards the closing of the throttle and avoids too rapid a return to idle position which could stall the engine. Very strong idle even at 800 rpm with this carb right out of the box.
However, use it with a grain of caution. Raise the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery post. I have never been able to get a very strong pump shot, even after adjusting the stoke and installing the arm with the three holes since my carb did not have the holes, only a single hole. A few of the manufacturers did not coat their floats, and used a cork material that seemed to work fairly well with the gasoline then being sold. Hope this mess helps, Doc First off the carb has been rebuilt and cleaned.
By the way, does it pop back if you floor it slowly? At low speeds the is dropped down into the primary main jets, thus partially closing off the flow of fuel. I noticed the Edlebrocks pump shot is substantially stronger and this is basically the same carb, perhaps they upgraded it at some point. I read another article that says I may need to close the throttle plates to get the idle circuit going again also. Unscrew the wing-nut and any other connectors, and then remove the air filter entirely. Running the distributor advance to full vacuum will also help smooth out your idle.
Spark plug wires are an often-overlooked culprit. Install the screw and spring. Its like they are not doing anything? Use needle-nose pliers to bend the innermost tang next to the float to adjust the height. Solder the leak closed using as little solder as possible. I would be glad to ask him anything that I might not have run across through the years. You can tune some things to make them more forgiving, but a Holley is just a better choice there because they have more little things to tune for low vacuum engines and are better vented for bowl pressure fluctuations.
The carb is on a 400 mildly built and the truck is a manual. Be sure the throttle linkage is adjusted properly and not holding the throttle plates open any at all, they should be closed tight in the bore. If I pour a lttle gas down the carb while it is stumbling, itstops stumbling and smooths out. This also may be a solution for a retired machinist with access to a good machine shop. You wouldn't believe how many of these carbs I have laid hands on that this was the only problem. You have to pull off the top of the carb to set the floats, but it isn't bad. There are mathematical formulae to determine the number from the compression ratio, but they get complicated because of factors such as altitude, etc.
Check the temperature gauge to know when it's at the appropriate running temp, and listen to the sound of the engine to get some sense of the adjustments that need to be made. Another possible solution is the installation of an electric fuel pump. Connect the vacuum gauge to the vauum port that supply's the distributor's vacuum advance. There are three adjustments on the accelerating pump lever in order to supply the correct amount of fuel depending on weather conditions. In the case of the integral choke, there will be a tiny vacuum passage from the throttle area vacuum source up to the choke housing where vacuum is exerted on the piston. Carbs are fun to play with. The mixture delivered by the carburetor is controlled by the idle tubes gasoline jets , and the idle air bleeds air jets in the carburetor.
I moved the rod on the pump t all 3 positions and it still did the same. He never noticed it when it was a race car with 4. Better to know the duration. An engine that runs too rich at idle will cause the plugs to be fuel-fouled, leading to a vehicle that is harder to start cold. I am going to try to get the plates closed and use the hole size you suggest to get the idle circuit going again.
The tang at the needle and seat are where you adjust this, again square and even. For these carburetors, Carter produced hundreds of different step-up rods. Screw the idle air screw all the way in, and then adjust the idle the conventional way. Compression test - my compression ratio is a number, and the compression gauge reads pounds, what gives????? Some of the carburetors with more than 2 step rods had modifications to the primary venturi cluster to utilize the extra steps. The screwdriver should be drawn against the magnet core. However, one should consider the clogged or missing vent.