I have more pictures of this in a bit. You will have to slide the trans in a little, jack it up, slide it in, jack it up, etc until the trans is aligned withe the engine. Lower trans just enough to get access to the clutch slave cylinder. The manual calls for 44 ft lbs + 90 degrees. This writeup will show you how to do this. Trust me on this one, do it now, before the trans is connected. If you couldn't tell from this point, the slave cylinder is just a hydraulic piston which pushes this rod outwards.
Disconnect ground cable from battery - 10mm 2. Remove coolant tank and set aside - remove three screws from top phillips - Lift up and disconnect sensor from bottom careful - remove top coolant line and plug. The wires can stay connected. When it's out to the point that the allen wrench hits the trans tunnel, remove the allen wrench and try turning the bolt or washer on the backside with your fingers. I would suggest using the spacers only to get the rod length right before you make a rod that is the correct length. Disconnect Speed sensor and reverse light connectors on driver's side of the trans.
The Audi A4 B9 2015 — have 4 fuse boxes location. I had to crack open the bleed screw and then push it in I had a hose and container hooked up to catch the fluid , and then bled the clutch system afterwards not a big deal though 4. Takes a 22mm wrench and a little elbow grease. Time it took me to get this far, about 7 hours. If you are trying to bring the engagement point of your clutch up off the floor, then you will be making the slave cylinder push rod longer. Put the trans in gear and try rotating the driveshaft end. The nuts and O2 sensor have been removed 8.
If not, you can permanently damage the slave when you press the clutch pedal - you will also shoot the push rod into the trans and have to remove the trans to get it out! Loosen clamping sleeve on downpipe-to-exhaust connection. Remove the heat shield for the driveshaft. Make sure no other connectors are attached. Remove the six 6mm allen head bolts from the pressure plate and remove it and the clutch plate. Bust out the impact wrench to loosen the six 17mm flywheel bolts.
A full, solid steel rod should be the permanent solution - not a rod with spacers in the caps. I tried to put the clutch slave cylinder on after the trans was installed. If you want to find the slave cylinder from the top, you can see it for the most part in the pictures below. Once you remove the bolt, you will be able to pull the slave cylinder off the seat if you were looking from this angle, you would pull the slave cylinder towards you a bit You want to be careful with all of this because the slave can easily be damaged, and it is connected to a hard line to your hydraulic system which can easily be damaged. Get it in enough to get a bolt started on either side start with the bolts that go through the guide pins. The rod's dimensions are as follows: Diameter - 0.
I'm not really sure of a good place to put the jackstands, I now have two slight dents in the floorboard of my car. You might want to start by trying to bust the driveaxle and driveshaft bolts loose first. You could try grinding a slot in it, and using a screwdriver. I eyeballed it since I didn't have the alignment tool. A plastic clip for removing the fuses is provided in the fuse cover on the left side of the dash panel.
Jack car up and put on jack stands. Start Friday night, and if all goes well, you should be done Saturday night, or Sunday morning. The one on the right is a zoomed in version of the picture on the left. If you use this guide, I only ask two things: 1. Give the clutch a try and see if the engagement point is better. If you do not like this, you can adjust the engagement point my modifying the slave cylinder push rod length. Just put one on each side to give you a better grip Now is the time where you can completely replace the rod, or just add a spacer under one of the caps.
Remove starter, two 16mm bolts and one 6mm allen bolt. The goal is to get the slave pushed in far enough so you can put it back on the seat it was sitting in. The shafts are bolted in with six 12 point torx-head bolts. The various electrical circuits are protected by fuses. It is located on the driver's side of the trans on the upper half.
And yes, the awful red thing is supposed to be a screw driver. Remove the last two engine-to-trans bolts. Put the clutch disk and pressure plate on, the clutch disk has to go in a certain way the taller middle side goes towards the pressure plate Start putting the bolts in, but don't tighten yet. To start, I would recommend using some spacers so you can determine a length which you find appropriate. I can not be held responsible for anything that happens as a result of using this guide. After you get the slave in, you are all done. Space is tight requiring the use of an allen wrench.
Remember, you are pushing back against the hydraulic system here. There are some steps I skipped, some that need to be added, and others that can be done differently. The shorty wrench will come in handy for the bottom nut. You have to apply constant pressure until the slave cylinder backs up. Remove the four engine-to-trans bolts on the bottom all 16mm , and there should be just two left holding it together afterwards.