I put new rings in it my self. I have probably cranked it on the starter for a total of 60 to 90 seconds over many different times and am still showing no oil pressure. Assembly lube is for bearing surfaces. They occasionally come loose at the oil pump and start sucking air. We're about 15 miles west of Springfield. All the parts were cleaned of paint and other dirt and grim.
Thanks for any advice you can give. When the gasket and cylinder head are placed on the engine, studs that are too long or short are immediately obvious. The reason for the rebuild was the tractor had been sitting for 2 years without starting or moving. It looks very little like the one I bought. If you have all sleeves installed at machine shop, line hone the crank journals, turning the crank, etc.
That said, I was able to have my head shaved without issue. Looking forward to the fun if I cannot reduce the smoke. Just use a good gasket sealer between the two if it comes to that. Machine shop time and equipment is expensive, but worth every nickle for engine work. Look through the intake and exhaust ports. Look at crank journals and bearing seating area in each rod. The crank was welded and machined down as the rods were rubbing against the counter weights and the rods were scaring the channel, in addition all the parts were machined flat.
Buy your own Tupperware, don't raid the kitchen cupboard. Then, the best thing you can do is put it in gear and drive it around. Immediately apply oil to all bare metal to prevent rust. Thoroughly wash and clean out all cylinder bores and oil passages, then clean them again. Due to budget constraints, I'm not going to be able to do as much with the sheet metal this go around as I'd like.
Some repairs were done following the tractor purchase, but the old tractor really needed a thorough rebuild. Damaged screw slots will soon become a thing of the past. This is actually a Flathead V8, not the 4-cylinder, but this photo graphically illustrates what might be found when the valve comes out. Use a heavy oil or gear oil in the relief valve to prime, and I believe if you crank it, possibly add some oil into the cylinders as well for lube, if it primes, some oil will flow out of the gague line, if you have it disconnected to test. I think there are two rolls up in there. I believe there is a upgraded rubber lip type seal for the front main crankshaft seal.
It could be done in a day if you had all the parts and a full machine shop at your disposal. I would let a significant amount of oil flow out of the gague line to make sure it is really flowing. Bearings not included, they can be ordered separately from our Engine Bearings category. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co. For the next step, rigging a temporary foot-throttle may help or you can just use the standard hand throttle.
Fill it up and run and look in radiator for bubbles. It'll be for some plowing, discin, brush hogin, and hauling some, maybe under 75 hours a year. However, the kit was made to utilize part of the original generator mount, which was long gone. If the unthreaded shank is sticking up above the head, the stud is too long. I soaked mine three times before attempting to move them. I believe mine is 70 years old and I am amazed at what this country could do and make then that we can't seem to do anymore. Bearings not included, they can be ordered separately from our Engine Bearings category.
Thanks Jebroni I really want to rebuild and use this little thing for a few years and I have heard folks say that they are not hard to work on at all. Copyright © 1997-2019 Yesterday's Tractor Co. Talk to Greg, either one. There will be bolts or studs that snap-off flush with a casting surface. With new sleeves, the engine can be made as-new without the need to bore the cylinders oversize.
Keep going for a couple whacks turning the tool a little more before each whack. This page documents the rebuild of my 1952 Ford 8N Tractor Serial Number 8N512510 This tractor was purchased in 1998 in poor, but running condition. For tractor models 8N, 9N, 2N. Any thread damage usually occurs at the nuts. The chemicals work better when given more time to work. Do you need a new radiator cap? If the bit goes off-center, angle the drill, then straighten out, so the hole ends up in the center of the snapped bolt. I would really like to rebuild the engine, but I am a novice to this and have never done this before.