It would smoke the same colour all the time too, not vary between white and black. Set it back to the original after you have re timed the gears. Is that the original coupler? Then set up on 23 on the flywheel. The previous owner said he had done eveything, crank reground, line bored, head shaved, etc but could not keep a head gasket on it. If it doesn't, loosen the two bolts that hold the coupling halves together and turn it to line the marks up. The sleeves were the same as my power major. You really have done a good job! Got it to fire on number 2 but couldn't get 1 or 4 to fire and lots of smoke as always.
You must be within a degree as you have stopped the smoke and got her to run right. It hits up on all 4 and runs decent. Mechanically everything appears fine on the top. I loosened all of the injector lines and tightened each to see if it was a air bleed problem. Do you see a problem cutting these a little shorter just to try the 180 degree swap? Sounds like a lug nut that has fallen off inside a hub cap. The more detail and information you provide in your question the easier it is for others to help you. It has not been easy and we have been down some blind alleys! You can tell if you are on compression on no.
You don't say if you have checked she is not 180 degees out. Because I wanted to test her before spending money, I got it to the position you are now in then I put about a pint of Automotive Transmission Fluid plus some injector cleaner in 5 gallons of diesel, put that in an empty tank and put her into hard work on the plough, chisel plough and pan buster. The same site said that the timing should be 19 degrees, or 23 if it had a new style head gasket. I hope that helps a little. Have you checked to see if the air cleaner is clean, and that the pipe from the air cleaner to the manifold is not obstructed. Give us a try and.
I wasn't smart enough to check the timing marks when I had the cover off but I don't think it would start so easily if the it was off a tooth? The timing cover can be removed in situ. Donot adjust the screw at the back of this housing. I purged all the old fuel,installed a new fuel filter and repaired wiring. The pump timing marks are in two different places. How do I tell if the rack is stuck? Our fast shipping, low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. The governor is really sharp too. I have to blead the injector pump.
That should work unless your Major is old enough that the timing mark is on the front crank pulley. The valves are closed,not on rock and the clamp bolt on engine side of coupling is at the bottom when the marks line up at 23 degrees. Some aftermarket ones don't have the marks in the right place. Is there something I am doing wrong or is this ok? They usually leak like blazes. The problem I am having is the timing marks do not line up at the pump.
Could I still have air in the fuel system? Is there any area that is prone to plugging up that I can check before refilling? I have here a Super Major that had injection pump issues. Then my next place to check would be injectors. This will not happen again. Wouldn't be a bad idea to set all the valves while the cover is off. I want to make sure it stays there after starting. This sets the maximum fuel position.
The rattle sounds like inside front but I will change oil and see what happens. Tomorrow I will purchase new bolts for the cam gears as a precaution. Is the block a Super block? John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. B Have you checked the line from the injectors towards the fuel-tank the so called Injector Leak Off line? We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Check the flywheel timing marks through the cover plate on the sump under the channel on the pump side. The pump came back from the shop set up to inject 1. Martyn Hi, Don't be tempted to run those engines with the air cleaner disconnected or the vacuum in the manifold will be reduced allowing the engine to over rev.
In my opinion you would not get it to start at all but I could be wrong. There is a method of spill timing the pump but it would only be useful if we were certain that the flywheel is on correctly. I have the timing set at 23 degrees. The second works on the button and stops the rack moving to the excess fuel position in normal running. Could I be doing something not right? The marks on the pump should then line up and can be adjusted using the coupling bolts.
Had trouble with a couple years ago where drivers were taking the hose off the manifold to get some extra revs speed to get the tractors back at finishing time. This in its self is an achivement. . None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co. I'll have the books out tonight, we do have some Minimec info here it's a British-made pump and I can also call on our local injection guy in the morning if I haven't got it here. Is the valve cover off of the wrong engine? Later tractors had a wider gear and I would suspect that yours are mixed.