Just another data point, since I've been through all of this as well. Had a long drive thia past week and with the new flasher in place the directrionals worked erratically. It looks pretty bright, and the 1157 only gets four volts, so it looks as dim as the smaller filament in a standard running light. Did by just using butt connectors that I weatherproofed with shrink tubing. Is there an open spot to add a relay or am I supposed to replace the relay with a higher amp one? They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. They can be put anywhere you have access to the wires.
An interesting point: Some of the cross-reference charts the retailers use call for a Grote 44540 as a plug-n-play replacement flasher for the 80. And that relates to rear light problem as well. Current going to the lights goes out the same terminal as on the original flasher. It takes a minimum amount of current flow through that heater to cause the bimetallic strip to bend. My Haynes manual leaves everything to the imagination. See how the plug is oriented with the square bump at the top. The half watt resistors are made of carbon and have a plastic coating to hold it together.
Also, the left blinker worked for about 3 blinks and that was it it for the left and right blinkers on the trailer. Is this a relay problem? But I haven't been able to get the trailer brake lights to work, all I've done is hook into the Kaymar wires. I had to go by the description of what the plug needed in each color location. First you will need to pry up and remove the white locking tab from the front of the socket. Are you running a 4-pin or 7-pin setup. Toyota gets around this by placing a jumper on the flasher with a socket to reverse the polarity. These are a great update to the old and outdated thermal type flashers used in many older vehicles.
Since flashing lights mean caution or emergency it would be even better if you could make them flash. . The emergency lights just activate both relays at once. You may need to use your original flasher and add some resistors or additional bulbs to cause a higher current to flow. Only a volt or two is dropped across the bulbs, so they are off. By varying the percentage of off-time and on-time, we can vary what we see as a change in brightness.
What trailer light converter are you using? So you'll need to swap the E- Gropund wire with that of the B- 12v one. Before the bimetallic strip has bent far enough, current is limited by the resistance of the heater. Twelve volts is already applied to one side of the 194 bulb through the tail light circuit, and it gets twelve volts now to the other side from the signal circuit. You wouldn't think that would be an issue, but perhaps it is. If I blow something, I'll reread this thread with much more interest! I haven't gotten back into mine yet. You likely needed to add a third ground wire for your new flasher.
Also, even if I knew which one of those I need to replace, I can't freakin find them to begin with. Once the turn signal is blinking, the brake can be released. That breaks the contacts, and the lights flash off again. I selected a Grotes flasher from an online company that is able to handle the 12 bulbs that I may be running. These flashers retain the reliability of an flasher along with staying extra cool, consuming very little power and extra long lasting life.
Because a ModuLite receives its power directly from the tow vehicle's battery and not the turn signal circuit, the need for a heavy duty turn signal flasher is eliminated. Thank you, and hope you can help. By powering the trailer lights in this manner, the tow vehicle's tail, turn and stop light circuits are not exposed to any additional loads. Incidently if you were to exceed the flashers capacity you would likely burn something out rather than blow a fuse as it would limit the current draw through the fuse until it burned out and then blow the fuse. You can pull the old relay and see if it still works. You can pull the old relay and see if it still works.
High-power resistors like a ten watt will have a wire wrapped around a ceramic core, and that will be inside a ceramic block that looks like a rock. Croft has grown from generation to generation to include four service centers and a distribution center. That switches the full twelve to fourteen volts to the bulbs, so they turn on, and it shorts out the heater, so the bimetallic strip cools down and straightens out. The pictures show the original wiring from the rear and the locking tab that needs to be removed. Any help that anyone can provide to me would be fantastic. I always saftey check the trailer lights before every trip and again if I unhook the trailer.
I've got the Hoppy that I connected directly to that 'extra' harness Kaymar provides for trailer wiring with the 5 std wires. I didn't attempt to disconnect the airbag yet to reach the relays. It's happened that drunk drivers have driven into the back of a vehicle parked on the roadside thinking they were following traffic. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. The pigtail you grounded is the third terminal. I suspected the flasher might not be up to providing enough current to operate the additional lights.