. We'll find out Friday anyway. Just go ahead and call the phone number at the top of the page and a friendly specialist will help you out. There is no bolt, it's a stud and a nut. Lefthand threaded drill bits can be handy, but these drill bits come in really weird sizes and so do easyouts so watch it if you want to use a combination of the two. If so, what's the right setting for the bolt? Connect vacuum hose to air valve. I'm in York if anyone happens to know somewhere.
Put it all back together and yes. ! Connect throttle and cruise control cables. So, any of you reading this have ideas or suggestions they're well-welcome. What sort of thing might they have done badly that would cause this? The Small Claims Track is there for you to use. Then you absolutely will have to drill a bigger hole in the manifold. My only thought is settling in time for the newly machined manifold which re-torquing might solve.
See the seller's listing for full details. Trying easyouts at each go to see if it can get it out without damaging the thread. The people who did the original work should be dealt with. I have one, it ain't much use and it bug5ers up any thread that might be there. I didn't either but did it in the end. Yes, I mean getting the manifold refaced.
I find it hard to believe that a decent new manifold could have warped that fast, but the only way to tell unfortunately is to get it off, and if it has warped to get onto the people who sold it to you. Tighten 2 lower bolts securing coil bracket to 8 Nm 6 lbf. Let the people with 12+ years of experience in finding and buying car parts help you find the best Exhaust Manifold for your Land Rover Discovery. . If you are still worried search online for info about consumer law. If you have a stud, or studs, then it should always stay in place and therefore there is less danger of damage to the head, as you should just be able to undo the nut s and remove the manifold, also you can replace and accurately line up gaskets and manifold, whereas with bolts you have to fiddle about holding gaskets and manifold in place while putting in at least two bolts.
Also, if the job was done by a garage they really ought to be doing all this work as it looks as if they didn't do a proper job the first time. Connect purge hose to manifold. But I would put something in there otherwise the strain on the existing stud may well cause it to go on holiday in which case you would be going backwards not forwards. . Connect coolant hoses to throttle housing and secure clips.
See if you can slide a very small screwdriver in beside the obstruction and, turning it anti clockwise, see what if anything it brings out. If the nut went first then the stud separately, you may be lucky and just need a new stud and nut. I'm gonna re-torque the manifold lugs tomorrow after taking it out on a good long drive. Strongly urge you to get them to redo the work, and hope you still have the receipt for the original work. At the end of the day, whether he is big or small, he still has a responsibility to his customer. Did you keep the old manifold? The proper thing to do is to undo all the other nuts and take off the manifold, there is more to it than that, see Haynes manual or other threads then extract the stud as best you can.
Connect hose to air valve and tighten clip. Bearing in mind I supplied the new manifold kit, gaskets, studs etc. Secure plug leads to clips. I have just reread the whole thread back to the beginning, so have a question or two. Much less than before I must admit but I'm lost now for ideas. Fit nuts securing air manifold support bracket and tighten to 25 Nm 18 lbf.
If you've lost the nut but the stud is still well tight in its hole, I would leave the stud well alone, there is otherwise a chance of stripping the thread in the head or, worse still snapping the stud when you try to extract it. Trouble is that one of the studs has stripped the thread in the head, can i just tap out the head with an m10 tap and use an m10 socket head screw instead of the stud? Align air pipe and coil bracket, fit bolts and tighten to 8 Nm 6 lbf. Well, got the skimmed original manifold back on now and it hasn't made the slightest difference, and I can see from the gaskets that I did a good job the first time anyway. But I don't feel so confident and comfortable doing it with this little independent place where I get along with the guy and he's done us really well in the past - don't really like basically accusing him of doing a bad job. If he is decent, he'll offer to sort it out, no money required. If the manifold was replaced 6 months ago and was sound then, it probably doesn't need refacing, if it does you should demand your money back.
I only give my car and my dog this level of attention ;- my partner and family make do. Perhaps whoever did the work 6 months ago simply did not tighten things up enough. The people who replaced your manifold 6 months ago, are responsible for this one not holding so I would deffo be having a go at them if not taking them through the small claims track. It's the same garage that I'm going back to in the morning, I've got a pretty good relationship with them. Remember to turn the stud a tad clockwise to crack the corrosion holding it in before trying to wind it out and be prepared to do a bit of back and forth movements rather than trying to wind it out all in one go.