There is a local garage to me, in Cambridgeshire called Heritage 4x4 - who have a large number of the circlips in stock which they had made and manufactured. They did repair it there. On collection there were a few minor issues which the dealership sorted quickly, these thing happen. This is my first Landrover purchase and think it will be my last to be honest. They have replaced the track-rods, lower wishbones on the front suspension and anti-roll bars front and back but the vibration is still getting worse. If you had a suitable magnet you could try 'fishing' for the missing snap ring - they are fairly tough. Well, with all the squeaks and rattles and failed lever mechanism the third I've experienced in two cars , I had enough and actually didn't return my loan car until everything, I mean every squeak and rattle was fixed.
However Land Rover in their wisdom have made it a pressurised top up in the engine bay that requires you to book it into a dealer. What is required to fix this problem Managed to fix most things on my old Discovery 1 so now willing to have a go on our 'new' Discovery 3 Any advice or stories from other owners gratefully received Yes we fixed it! The syncros must come to a stop when the shifter goes through the neutral position if the syncros are to last. She has 180000 on her clock, only thing is when pulling the gearbox judders, not all the time. Of concern though, the ball was laying in the yoke and retrieved but I think there is a clip somewhere that is missing. Took him about 1 hour to fix and no problems since. .
It's very slow, the graphics don't make the instructions clear and we have little trust in it to deal with delays and detours. Then pulling onto an offramp the hill descent control light, Traction control light, sport mode s and m lights came on. Located inside the transfer gear and on the rear of the mainshaft the splines tend to wear easily. Use a pump to fill until a little seeps out. I use mine off road though so expect to get some issues : Hello everyone, First of all, my english is not very well, appologize for that. Another forum member recommended welding it back up and grinding smooth.
Undo the drain and allow fluid to drain. Wont work in manual gear box either. It took almost two more months to fix. Can anyone tell me about re calibration. You would need to be printing money!!!! Shims — spacers used to fill spaces and gaps between objects — are often worn in the transfer box. Not sure of the miles on your D2, but if you have never changed the fluid you may want to as an attempt to solve this problem and to get one thing off your general maintenance list of things to be done. The V8 and Tdi R380 gearboxes have different bell housings and primary input shafts.
I am of a mind it will either end up in the bottom of the casing out of harms way or be soft enough to chew up if it tangled in the gears? The latter bought new had a vibration problem in the steering wheel observed on common road at a speed less than or equal to 90km and on highway between 110 and 130km. The built in hands free microphones are terrible making it almost impossible for a caller to hear the driver on a call. I found that the bias spring housing looked a little different and didn't have a square metal housing, rather a rubber cover, which ideally I would have liked to replace as it had a few splits in it. I have patched them on many occasions, and they last for years. Told by main dealer new gearbox required.
Garage replaced anti-roll bar bushels and link rods on both sides but hasn't helped. And if so, How much will it really tell them? When we returned to Spain, it went to the local dealer who spent a long time diagnosing the problem. I havent had time to look at it much. Fragile Components within the Gearbox. I haven't checked fluids yet. Only one ive ever had that i felt passionate about.
I have a rattle on idle with my new model defender 90 with 6 speed gearbox and stumbled cross the forum with the answer! You require a rebuilt or new gearbox. There are many types of car problems that can cost you dearly including:. I love it like one of the family. Judging by a few comments here, I'm not the only one. A common mistake leading to early demise is running 90wt.
Replace the gearbox and transfer box input gear use a cross drilled gear to prevent recurrence of the problem. Today on my way to work the transmission started acting up. Taking the centre-console out was straight forward and the Haynes manual proved useful for a change. My gearbox rattles on idle, in neutral, with the clutch up This is very common on Diesel engined vehicles. Mine was packed with grease so make sure to clear it out so that allen key goes all the way in.
To the accelerator, what I mean by this is the rpm would be between 3000-4000 and my foot wouldn't even be close to the floor. Sounds like these other guys have a little better handle on what's going on. The later version, introduced around 1988 is known as the long stick version. The gap in the snap ring is much narrower than the gear handle spindle - if that makes sense. You may delete and block all cookies from this site but some elements may not work correctly. The problem is the Gearlever pivot arm that has corroded. I tried to take this up with Landrover but they fobbed me off with rubbish about amount of short trips etc despite doing several long distance trips a week.