So, I got bit by the dreaded X-fer case issue yesterday. My 2010 model transfer case failed 1 month after I replaced the stock tires into 275x45R20. But on the other hand, newer everything else - Tires, rotors, calipers, pads, 4 wheel bearings. The light is only on while it's slipping, although my wife told me two amber lights came on in slippery conditions when we got a heavy snowfall. Thick, black, gluggy, and stinky. Call my local Mazda dealership and check the warranty status? It has never seized or anything.
That's what that popping sound is when you spin the tires and the wiggly car light comes on. Any offending posts will be deleted, this rule will be enforced with extreme prejudice. The vehicle will only have 5000 miles on it, but I will post pictures and we can start to get a history of the fluids in these things hopefully. Be sure to use the heavy duty floor jack because the transfer case is extremely heavy. So I brought my car to the dealership as it is still under warranty and they told me that they couldn't reproduce as there was no snow and we weren't expecting snow; they recommended bringing it back next year during a heavy snow. Just comparing the external physical size and placement of the fill plug - I doubt that the fluid capacity is much if any different - but would like to corrected if it is not accurate.
Note that the replacement transfer case is identical to the original--meaning it will likely fail again prematurely dealer implied as much too. It takes some gravel or snow to test it out. The next day the dealer called back and said I need a new transfer case, I asked if they found a problem and was told yes, but the mechanic was tied up and the guy at the desk couldn't tell me exactly what they found. They are the former Ford driveline group. Got a free loaner vehicle while I'm waiting. Then I knew something had to be wrong. Had many issues with this vehicle being extremely unsafe in the snow.
I like my Mazda, it's basically going to have a new drivetrain soon , but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't part ways with this car I'm unsure what I should do. Bolt the case into place and secure it. I was watching him through the glass that they had on the side of the building and i saw exactly what he did. If you don't know your vehicle's Transfer Case or need help identifying what parts you require for your transfer case you can always just call the drivetrain experts toll free. Transfer case spline is completely worn out See pictures attached and I just learned form the mechanics that the transmission arbor needs to be replaced as well, since it is damaged on the coupling female spline. Oxidation generally occurs more quickly at higher temperatures fig. I want to see the true color of the original fluid, I can't imagine it being black.
The little arm came loose, wife very upset she can't use the back door as I pulled the fuse after finding the hole. I'd say that is better than most would do in the same situation beyond the warranty period, definitely worth the 5 minute call to Mazda. It just kills me because I brought the car to the dealer 2 months ago when I first heard the noise that I now suspect to be the point at which the splines stripped and even pointed them to the transfer case. I've said before this is happening during cold temperatures. I have front wheel drive only now. At least the ram won't try to shove through the window though.
Is the car at the dealership, another mechanic, or just home? I have a Speed 3 btw. I think an external transfer case cooler might be in order for me. Its been a busy few months with a new baby arriving and my son hitting the terrible 2's so I didnt get to changing the fluid had all intentions of doing it but. It looks that bad because the suction gun isn't getting all the old oil out. Step 1 - Purchase Transfer Case Rebuild Kit Visit a local auto parts store or shop online for a rebuild kit that is compatible with your make and model vehicle. This doesn't inspire much confidence in the Mazda brand.
The oil is definitely less viscous than before, it flows way smoother. What are the odds I sheard the splines vs blowing the guts of the xfer case? Thanks That's what mine did before I needed the transfer case replaced. Mazda Canada has a warranty extension on this issue. We were lucky with it still being under warranty. It simply means that the other auto maker has established its own, unique fluid requirements. I found another dealership further out that is more transparent than these clowns. But like i said, i have to go out this weekend up north shore, kind of a fare well to a mate which is leaving the country, so cant put off.
A few weeks ago it started making a high pitched squealing sound that sounded like brakes, every time I started it in the morning. You can be sure that after installing these you will never have any more issues with broken bearing caps that destroy the transfercase. The t case has had new oil every 30k, the shop not mazda affiliated did it the first few times then I purchased the oil pump and started doing it myself from the youtube vids from here. I know the transmission and rear differential fluids need to be changed but I don't know about the front differential, thanks in advance. I found another dealership further out that is more transparent than these clowns. The only relevant thing is the right wheel bearing is going out as well, so some of the t-case noise could have been attributed to that, my wife drives it. When i confronted him, he told me he ran the machine twice and used 16 quarts.
If it empties after only 3 days it is a pretty major leak. I can see the rear differential being lifetime oil, that only spins when slippage is detected. To be safe i called Mazda roadside assistance to have it towed. The earliest sign of it going bad is usually that you will find a fluid leak and or have a burning smell when driving. Could be a supplier issue, maybe a second tier supplier part that isn't built to spec. Clearly reading the posts this is a design flaw that Mazda is not willing to address in a serious manner. I am kind of confused? Not sure if this is true but just letting you guys know what they told me.
I guess the failures are spread across model years and lots of parts. If I was able to get all the old out, maybe it would have started leaking sooner. Better to be safe to have a second bottle just in case; you don't want to be doing this and have no new oil left. Just change the transfer case oil to prevent seizing and you have no worries. Tasca has all of these parts and delivery at less than 700 dollars. The leaks supposedly were caused by failing to clean the mating surfaces of the front and rear cases well enough before applying sealant at the factory. I've noticed a thump around 43 mph in 6th gear.