When you remove the spring compressors make sure the spring is correctly located in the strut - there's a bump in the strut that the bottom end of the springs sit in. Where I'm stuck is getting the axle splines into the need wheel hubs. Outer Tie Rods your inners are probably fine if the dust cover is intact, your outers have boots that will crack. Use some more pb blaster on the cup and then by lowering the hub and turning it you can pull the strut out of the cup may require more hammering. Thought you meant about getting the complete B12 Eibach Pro or a Sportline Kit. The rears are unknown due to minimal documentation.
What about the Bump Steer Kit? Did you change them out for something else? T 35mm or Vogtland 40mm. As you may not know whether you can separate the outer tie rods from the inners you might have to replace the entire tie rod assembly. Pull out your new strut and install in order, bump stop, dust boot, spring, spring cup, bearing, rubber mount, and nut. The back is visually noticeable. My parents are in Pasadena area, Sierra Madre, and I grew up in Arcadia.
If you replaced the rear axle bushing you should also tighten the bolt now too. Put that onto the shock, put on the shock mount, spacer if available, and then tighten the nut down. If you can, have at least two things on it at all times or hang it with a wire. I haven't been able to find any stiffer springs that would leave it at stock height though. I was going to do the spring and shocks changes myself as they don't sound that complex. .
Good tyres are a must too. Hell I crawl over speed bumps in an effort to preserve my suspension, but this will change when I upgrade the suspension. What would you guys recommend as aftermarket parts for the above and any other upgrades that'd be sensible to do at the same time. Always make sure wheel alignment is correct. The Eibach would be a step up from the other two kits-its monotube as opposed to twin tube- I guess if you can stretch to that then you'll be very happy but I cant really fault the Vogtland and im sure the Koni is pretty similar. Reducing the body roll would be number two.
Rear axle bushing Shock mount End links Inner tie rods unlikely to go bad, especially if the dust cover is intact which it probably is. If its not broken don't bother replacing it. I read a bunch of individual how-tos for various parts of this job, but doing it all at the same time lets certain things go a bit faster. And the place doing the work certainly looks a lot better than the back street garages I was looking at. Since then i've always brought coilovers, and if you fun them above mid travel, they're no harder than your typical after market shock+spring combo, but they offer far greater flexibility when it comes to getting the ride hight just so. I didn't have it and it made installing the replacement nut a pain because you need an offset wrench to fit into the shock mount to tighten it. You should now tighten the axle nut first.
Slide the shock into the axle and put the bolt into it. If you would like to contact me by phone with any questions, e-mail me off line and I'll provide a number. You can run more aggressive pads, but these were great for an occasional track day that were also suited well for daily use. From top to bottom: A large rubber bumper, then the bearing that goes under the bumper, the dust cover, the bump stop, and the strut itself. I have heard that you may want to have someone sit in the rear of the car while you tighten the shock bolt to preload it even more. Rsb is going to be next for me too I think.
You appreciate the comfort a lot on long trips As already mentioned there's nothing to stop you shopping around to buy the bits and getting some quotes for fitting. If you wanna improve your handling, adding a rear sway bar made the biggest improvement to my car other than the tune. And i'm glad i did, it's so much better, handles a dream now and actually doesn't grind going over speed bumps like it used to, i guess the original items were well past it. If you do opt to do the work yourself, dont worry about driving to a garage with miss-aligned suspension - that is unless you are really out in the sticks far from the alignment garage, a few miles wont hurt. I have a wagon which has a stiffer spring so you have to push down on the rear of the axle to lower it more to get the spring out. You may need to reinstall the axle to do this. I had one bad tie rod at 100k miles and had to go to the dealer to get one in a hurry since I had only ordered ends in my kit.
The lower control arm which has 4 points of contact. Rent a ball joint removal kit from an auto parts store - not to replace the ball joint, but because it probably comes with 3 sleeves, all of which will be very useful with a vice in replacing the bushings. The problem is I can't find the spring rate of them. Again, don't tighten the end link bolt all the way down. And I don't live in California.
I had considered doing it myself, but in a shared car park with a basic toolkit it would be a bit ambitious + we can't go too long without the family car. If you can, you're in luck. The rear bar gets rid of a lot of the understeer and makes the car far more responsive. While you are doing the job you'll need to support the engine from the top or bottom a dolly with a jack on it and 2x4 on the jack is nice since you can lift and shift the engine around. Yes, do go for the fresh T-bars.