Inspect jets, yes glow testing then is the best way but not always necessary for good results with original jets. We now stock thousands of carburetor parts, shipping orders daily to our customers all over the world. Fitting the gasket in now is the correct way to do this. Of course, wind in the direction the spring is wound in, and don't bend it. Easy steady top end power. Next remove the Power Piston. Please to view the power tube installation instructions page.
Reason is because you ground then down to get them out, ruining their self locking nature. If I remember correctly if you just bolt the Model B carburetor onto the model A manifold the angle of the carburetor will be slightly off requiring you to file the holes in the manifold or use special offset bolts I think Bratton's has them. If you have questions, email anytime! It's 45 minutes long and he does a much better job explaining all of this. If there is a difference in the two floats, that would be a very delicate bend on just one side. Don't forget the lighter spring goes in first. However, some Model A Ford owners like to adapt their Model A engines with the Model B carburetors, with the expectation of obtaining additional horsepower.
There is one tube sticking up that was not removed during the cleaning. Can anyone would anyone build me a good working B carb. Start by removing the bottom of the Carb. Turn the Air Horn top upside down on the table. Carb Cleaner or Engine De-greaser is good. Read up on it on Vince's site: Over several decades I have tried Tillotson's, Simmons, Allstate, and lots of Zeniths but I have been using a Zenith B carb on my Tudor driver for a couple of seasons now and may not ever go back to my old stock Zenith.
Most Model A Fords that have a Model B engine, are still using the normal Model A carb, but it is worth identifying the carb first, before ordering the wrong parts. It's important to go back and look at some of the disassembly photos to make sure you are assembling correctly. If you removed the butterfly, now is the time to put it back on. To do this right, lay out all the parts as they will go in. Designed to bolt to the stock exhaust manifold. Inspect for any visible damage. You need to keep everything, even if you see the carb kit has a new one.
I used my 3 gal. I usually bead blast the bodies and blow clean , then use brake clean to flush passages clean. The Swan design intake manifolds were flat across the length. No warranty is expressed or implied. Please do a search on Ford Barn of previous threads on B carbs. I lost the choke cable screw because I did not follow instructions. They say they are chemical resistant.
Once you have both sides perfect, you are done. These floats are still available as of this writing so if you feel the float has sprung a leak, or just to be precautionary, order a new one. This means you will have a few alternatives. You should now have an accelerator linkage that springs back by itself. This is cheaper but leaves you with some very nasty chemicals and possibly not so perfect results.
If you don't have one, take this opportunity to get one. To quickly recap…the Mighty Model A was purchased with a Tillotson. They work just fine without adding sealers or something that could contaminate your fuel system. I use Evaporust to get rid of the rust, scrub with different wire brushes to get rid of all residue, and then use carburetor cleaner and air to make sure passages are clean. It's called the main discharge tube.
Most of the credit for my learning all of this goes to Mike at Mikes Carburetor Parts. Enclosed fuel filter is not installed; dirt or rust enters the carburetor for any reason; if carburetor disassembly is attempted by either purchaser or third party; incorrect usage of aftermarket gasoline additives or long periods of inactivity resulting in varnish buildup inside the carburetor; Any usage of gasoline alcohol content over 10%; Stripped screws, inlet threads, bent or broken levers or castings are not normal warranty issues, but an indication of misuse by the purchaser or third parties. To complicate things there have been leather pump kits sold for 2nd design carbs, but still with the round stem. Starting in 1952, the airhorn casting is heavier and is retained with larger 12-28 Fillister head screws until the end of production in 1967. There are several items protruding up from the top, but one of them will remain even when everything is apart.
You have enough parts to build 3 carbs. We will begin by removing everything from the top cover. Turn it around and check again. Just Google Rochester B YouTube. Push all of that down in the hole and put the pump bracket in its slot in the body, and push them both down until you can get one of those U-shaped keepers in its slot to lock it all down. If it isn't, it may not push the checkball out of the way properly. You then go to wide open throttle.