There's a couple on each side of the block low down usually hard to see because exhaust manifolds get in the way. Timing set around 4-6 degrees at idle with some advancing occurring when accelerator is depressed. However stock wimpy fuel pump is not going to pump 18psi and your lucky if it will hold 12psi once those injectors spray enough fuel to support a 250hp motor. It's Not Just Any Engine, It's A Chevy. Don't fall into the trap.
Just be careful with used Vortec heads as they are prone to cracks after 100k+ miles of heat and cooling cycles, iron cracks. Lessons learned: 1 Make sure the parts service persons are competent in their job. There is some good diagnostic advice tbichips. Your fan shroud will be different and you may have to relocate things. If you could be more specific it'll likely be easier to pinpoint your problem. Well here is a basic guideline. Boyzofsummer answered about a year ago How's it going fellas It appears that everyone has attempted to fix their 1988- 1999 Chevy Silverado Makes complete sense with several answers.
Mddoc13 answered 2 years ago There is a transmission module located on the passenger side of the transmission. If it runs great the the problem is not fuel delivery per say but it probably can be seen in the fuel trim numbers. Heads are aligned for proper bore consistency. The truck idles smoothly, and it runs fine once it's above about 5-10mph or so. This should provide you with a sufficient assortment of cams for whatever power range you want for your motor. Instead, I went to the green auto parts store across the street and had the module tested.
I replaced O2 sensor and fuel filter, but get a code-44 lean exhaust. I can get engine to run better with it disconnected, setting timing at 4 to 6 degrees advance at idle and it jumps to 8 to 10 degrees advanced under throttle. If the 1980 truck had a small block v8 in it already then it should bolt right up to the motor mounts and transmission. I am thinking of a new crate 350. Just put cap n rotor n still doing it. At about 1500 - 1700 rpm under power, the engine bounces like crazy. After you remove the old sensor put some anti seize lube on the threads of the new one and connect it to the modular connector.
When it comes to price and reliability you won't find a better deal. I had a tight space in the garage and couldn't get under the vehicle from the side which would have been a better approach. Constant lean condition causes the compression chamber to operate at extreme temperatures. Once under the truck look at the exhaust pipe coming from the engine and you will see the O2 sensor. But you will lose low end torque.
Remember the problem occurs under heavy load. Wrecked my car so now need this as a daily. I add more gas and as I reach 75 mph the engine miss is bearable. I basically have to crawl through any intersection until it picks up a bit of speed from idle. When I'm at freeway speeds, it will surge and backfire. I clipped this picture from my latest Hot Rod magazine on choosing the size of your exhaust pipe.
In that range and the gas mileage will be fine. This results in very poor performance, fuel economy and detonation above 45 mph. So I begin every project with a new upgraded pump. This way you can just slap the spring in and go and its a one time disassembly of the throttle body instead of 3 or 4 times to get the fuel pressure correct. Custom long block assembly We meticulously mill each Cylinder Head until perfect alignment and sealing of the head gasket is achieved. So what size injector or fuel pressure combo to use? Check out the diagrams Below Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed. It seams like it might be smoking a little maybe? For me, it was a 10¢ hose clamp.
Peteroy answered 2 years ago My 1993 5. The port and head planes are no longer in sync. However, service engine soon light remains lit, of course. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa. You can fit it in almost anything you want.
I notice that many who post in these threads never return to tell what resolved their problem. If it was the 292 cu. It is contagious like a disease and gets everywhere you lease expect it. A coolant temp sensor will make you run rich, the pigtail wiring harness always gets internally broken on these due to the way the engine rocks under load, try to wiggle yours while running to see if the problem fixes. I can now rocket up a hill. I uses a small wire brush to clean off the rusted screws and mounting surfaces. No engine light either So i was just tinkering with the truck, and the wire under the the glove compartment, its brown and black, you disconnect it before you do set the cap for your timing i unplugged it and the engine light came on, but the truck instantly started working way better.
Blocks are then thermal cleaned followed by steel micro blasting until they achieve a brilliant appearance. I couldn't see it from underneath the front until I crawled almost entirely under the vehicle. People think the 350's were putting out more than that but not so. Now the truck is a bit quieter, but it still stutters at low rpms under power. Any help would b greatly appreciated and can't afford mechanic so I'm doing it myself and need the truck for work.