Caradiodoc Heater problem 2000 Ford F150 V8 two wheel drive manual 185,000 miles. If the heater hoses are hot, suspect a problem with the door actuators on the heater box. I have had the heater core, radiator and engine flushed. I don't think this is my problem because it seems like I had shorted out my trailer lights and then the heat control problem started. If the pump tests good check for a short in the wires to the pump. Shut the engine off, wait twenty minutes or so for the engine to cool, then carefully open the radiator cap.
I think you have to slide out the cup holder to get to them. I think if this is your problem then you should pry open the old module, pull out the shaft and slide it into the hole on the duct. Ultimately, the plastic breaks from the force of the actuator and the door can no longer be controlled. If the coolant level inside the radiator is low, adding coolant will not fix the problem if there is a leak. It is a cheap part.
Still looking for an easy location to do a back flush. I am baffled as to why it is overheating. It's not just the dash vents it's also the defroster and floor. Do you have Manual Climate Control System or Dual Automatic Temperature Control System? Either the heater core is stopped up due to rust in the cooling system, or. You can find information on that. Is it possible the heater core is broken if it is not clogged? It is very common with Ford Windstars.
Maintaining the correct engine operating temperature usually 200 to 220 degrees F. ? By the way, you asked me about manifold vacuum twice. Its also possible your water pump impellers are deteriorated to the point they dont push enough water. Answer I have a 1999 Windstar and took out the radio and it was right behind it, it is simple to do. Reconnect the lower radiator hose and thermostat, and then top off the radiator.
I just put a new heater control valve in and it has vacuum to the valve. The counter guy at AutoZone we should be on first-name basis by now gave me a few pointers on the theory and function of blend doors. I think I would start by removing the control head and making sure that the vacuum lines are all connected and also check the lines for leaks, at least as far back as you can. Also when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink ant that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This door is mounted beside the heater core, blends cool air with hot depending on the position of the door. Driving without coolant in the system will result in the engine overheating and seizing.
The coupling is a drive much like a square drive ratchet and socket made of plastic and often cracks allowing the drive to turn without changing the door position. Haven't found anything easy yet except for brakes and alternator. I was wondering what could be causing these two things. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace temperature blend door actuator. Just a slight bit of force at about the mid point on each side should do the trick. Replacing the core is easy, getting to it is a day's work. The last time it happened, I pulled over, vented the radiator, and literally blew into the overflow tank to get the fluid back into my radiator.
What does it do, what is its purpose, etc. Replaced the Fuel Pump on both my daughters a few months ago and it wasn't too bad. These are a couple of 'U' Shaped pieces of metal that slide into the stereo holes. Ours is doing the same thing and I haven't replaced it yet. I have already replaced the blower motor resistor on a recommendation of an auto parts store employee.
You can find articles on this swap and. If the temperature gauge on the dash reads low, the engine is slow to warm up or you can feel coolant rushing through the upper radiator hose when the engine is cold started, the thermostat is stuck open or missing and needs to be replaced. The above Answer might be true in some cause's but before I replaced a fan motor I'd check the fuse first. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. How much manifold vacuum were you pulling at an idle? Check for a fuse… broken thermostat would cause this. Is essential not only for good heater output but also for good fuel mileage and proper operation of various emissions control functions. Also, check for a water control valve.
Take out the screws and the module should slide out. This is an easy repair and most anyone with any sense of mechanics can accomplish it in less than an hour. Pull the heater water hose away from the heater core tube. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info. If you have a pool of coolant on the floor, you'll have to go after the core.
Replacing the core is easy, getting to it is a day's work. If you have a specific automobile that you are concerned with, I can be much more help. Reassembly is in the reverse order as disassembly. They have it buried in the plenum box and you have to remove the steering wheel, steering column, dash, evacuate the refrigerant system, drain the radiator, and remove the plenum box to get to the core. I really do not have the money to spend on parts that are not going to even fix the problem. The blend door is the mixing, distribution chamber on the heater.