Turn the vehicle off and replace the brake light circuit's fuse. Also check belts and pulleys for wear and cracking. Check for power at the switch to make sure that it's faulty. Brake light filaments are pretty thick and sometimes a break in it is not always visible at first. Thank you for your advice and time. If not, a few cars have a secondary fuse panel under the hood.
The bulbs are the most common cause even if they work but they can short when hitting bump. Learn something new every day!! Heath Nope there is no kind of warning light on the dash. With daylight savings time ending. Now, the tail lights don't work. This is really becoming annoying and I have no idea where this short could be coming from. Thank you for the tip.
I'm assuming you don't have any aftermarket wiring like trailer lights, etc. Both filaments in both bulbs are fine and so are my fuses. Did you check the bulb filaments with an ohmmeter or visually? If you do, you have an open in the wiring, in which case, you will have to find it or wire around it. I have after market lights in, and when I plugged in the old stock set, all my brake lights started working again. Open the hood and remove the engine compartment fuse box cover by pushing the tab and lifting it up. Please help because I do not want to get a bs ticket from are lovely police pigs. Fist thing to do is check your fuse box to make sure there are no blown fuses.
On my 96 sentra, it was the red 10A fuse on the top right side of the fuse box. I dunno, but has anyone else heard of something like that?? A short term method of not killing the battery woul … d be to unplug the connector to the switch and get a new one. I don't have any tail lights. The wire was just stripped bare copper, which sometimes made contact and sometimes didn't. Ok, well i'm a little prepared for that already, i've been reading over my repair manual all day, and it has instructions on how to do that. What will i be looking for when i remove the steering wheel? If that is not there or not visible then pull the fuses until you find one tha has failed. If you need to replace a blown fuse in your Sentra, make sure you replace it with one that has the same amperage as the blown fuse.
Is there something else i can do or might be doing wrong? If it does turn out to be the dimmer switch, do you have any idea how much a replacement would cost? When you depress the brake pedal, it disengages the shifter. I think it is a low amperege type like 7. Headlights and dash lights are working normally, and there are not clicking noises. I would inspect wires near the pedal switches and in the back near the lights themselves and then check any relays in the system to be sure they are functioning correctly. This is a fairly common problem with radios installed by do-it-yourself or inexperienced installer.
When you turn on the lights? I'm assuming you don't have any aftermarket wiring like trailer lights, etc. Its about 4 or 5 inches tall and only a few inches wide, and there is a handle at the top. The fuse box inside, under the dash, should have a fuse puller tool and replacement fuses, with a 10A fuse you can use to make this fix. I checked the positive termanal and could find no problem. MaximA32 wrote:Have you checked the wiring between the stop lamp switch and the fuse? Also have checked the tail light bulbs and the current filament are ok. Which fuse did you replace? When you step on the brake pedal, it activates a solenoid that unlocks the shift linkage cable so it will move. He also told me that replacing a fuse that kept blowing out was dangerous and after the first time to get it checked out.
I've been doing some research, could it possibly be a relay gone bad? The fuse box inside, under the dash, should have a fuse puller tool and replacement fuses, with a 10A fuse you can use to make this fix. Unfortunately the high mount third brake isn't working either. Make sure you get an 18W light bulb 921. Double check to ensure that you've got two-element bulbs in two-element sockets, and single-element bulbs in single-element sockets. Consider adding aftermarket brake bleed nipples that contain internal check valves and reduce the brake bleeding job to one person.
Next I tried changing the brake light switch and what do you know, the fuse blows again. You don't want the bulb with the tabs. Make sure you get an 18W light bulb 921. Yes, it's most likely a faulty brake light switch. Sometimes the tips will melt and short out. I uninstalled them thinking that was the problem but no luck. Any ideas of what could be shorting it out? Does the fuse blow if the lights are turned off? I checked the positive termanal and could find no problem.