The brakes stop the car just fine, but the car wants to go. One dealer in Alabama and one in Texas. Technician replaced spark plugs and the specific ignition coil that was the problem. Has not come back since. Thermostat and cover replaced, coolant replaced. One of the codes read out during this diagnosis indicated a few misfires on one cylinder. Took it for a spin on the highway in heavy traffic, no problems, usually stops.
Problem turned out to be a crimped oil drain washer it has a lip on the inner ring which was crushed on one side. I noticed that, while driving on the expressway, I could take my foot completely off the accelerator and the car maintained its speed of 65 mph for about 1 minute. These vehicles are equipped with certain air bag inflators assembled as part of the passenger frontal air bag modules, and used as original equipment or replacement equipment. Idle Air Control valve is easy to swap out as there are only two bolts. Last visit to the dealer they replaced a mass air flow sensor, problem occurred again. New intake manifold was ordered and replaced. Once it actually did stall.
This issue was discovered during the repair and was not the reason the car was brought in. Engine light is off now. By updating it to the latest version, the problem is taken care of. Dealer replaced boost solenoid tube, which was found to be cracked. Vehicle: 2004 Mazda 6i 4 cyl manual 5-speed 108000 miles The issue: idle surge The story: Alright, a few months ago I started to notice a number of things on my car that were going wrong. Unable to locate sensor to further diagnose. Not a do it yourself fix.
After I got the car back it ran rough and the fuel economy was absolutely terrible and gear changes were reving out to buggery going up inclines. No problem while motor was hot but when parked leaked. These vehicles are equipped with certain air bag inflators assembled as part of the passenger frontal air bag modules, and used as original equipment or replacement equipment. Pump runs off of camshaft operating between 485psi and 1885 psi. Mazda put data recorder on it, but claims that engine performing as designed.
I have the same problem with stalling. Honourable Adeogun answered 3 years ago Am facing lots of problems with my Mazda6 2003 4cylinders, my car gear always take 3 to 5 minutes before it gets load especially when the engine is cold and I've changed the Gear Box, Brain box, fuel pump, and injector mouth but still the car is not yet okay, moreover, I've scanned it but the scanning machine didn't detect any fault concerning the gear problems please if There's anybody that knows the solution to my problems please don't hesitate to give me the useful informations. Mazda will notify owners, and dealers will replace the driver's frontal air bag inflator with an alternate inflator, free of charge. They reported that it was a bad oil pan seal and would have to be ordered and replaced. I'd be looking for a vacuum leak first though. Code indicated a lean condition. Similar diagnosis and solution as last time.
This task is for shade tree mechanics that like to do this stuff. We've both tried fuel injector cleaner. Mazda will notify owners, and dealers will replace the front passenger air bag inflator with an alternate inflator, free of charge. Dealership has replaced so may parts, flashed cpu etc. Cheers, Nick If your idle randomly drops below usual or is not compensated when you brake probably it is O2 air sensor.
Materials inside break down and go back up into engine and causing engine failure. In the summer it gets better. I got a new clutch put in not long ago. It is a 2005 and has about 37,000 miles. It is exasperating but can be done. Broke 1 spark plug and fouled the other 3. Currently the engine starts and revs to 2000 rpm then will slowly start to drop to about 900 the usual cold engine idle speed, no ac It will hold steady there for a bit then start to bounce a little with an occasional drop to almost stall then a spike and a return to idle.
Or, maybe, air intake is cracked and lets air in after the sensor. It was tightened but leak continued. Not required to smog test in my location, so told I could live with it as repair was more than car was worth. Fixed problem and car drives better than ever! Camshaft repositioned, problem has not recurred. No misfires at near max speed.
Oil leak from around valve covers. Replaced pulley, belt, and coolant. They've tried the spark plugs, resetting some code, and finally cleaned the throttle just today they did the throttle so we will see if it is better. I checked this with 2 dealer and 1 mechanics, they said there is nothing wrong. I decided repair was not worth the cost, given the age and value of the car. So I would think itwould be a vac leak. While I have it off I'm also going to look at the pcv valve and line.
Diagnosis worn spark plugs, misfire 4, bad coil 4, possibly additional sensors issues. Both engine mounts were bad. Strong surges or drops only seem to happen if I am traveling slowly, less than 15 mph, or stopped. Idle issues are often caused by mixture issues, usually too much air. This fixed the clutch shudder. I hate that my first post is in a time of need but I have been lurking on here for some time, reading about others problems and how they got fixed and now I ask for your help.