Engine cranks but doesn't fire? One bad guess will cost you more than the manual and meter! If everything is powering up fine then you may have an issue with the neutral safety switch. If you haven't replace the battery in a while, it's a relatively inexpensive quick fix that if it doesn't solve the problem, just extends your battery life for the next… One way you can see if you have spark is to get an inline spark checker. Here is the short story, I hope. Like the car above the radio, lights, fan, etc all come on. When it happens, the car will turn over but not start. Although this should be in domestic.
I don't believe Subaru used ignitors past '99, but if they did, your should be located on the firewall behind the throttle body. If you have a spare spark plug you could insert it into one of the plug wires and check for spark. The situation arose from disconnecting the negative battery terminal. After changing the sensor, the computer says all is good but the car still won't start just keeps turning over. I guess search for cranks no start got ya here. Last saturday it just stalled on me and wouldn't start back up.
This lengthy proceedure is the pass-lock relearn. It would usually work again if I waited long enough. You got spark, air is not much of a big deal here unless as said she jumped time even though a degree off should still produce an effort. Yesterday it happened to my wife and as I had to meet her in a parking lot while I was on my way to work, I didn't have time to properly troubleshoot it to see if either the accelerator or cruise control cables were sticking. The cheap way might be to find a mechanic who will be willing to clean the converter the honeycomb things and see if it runs a bit better.
No power to headlights, fan, radio, windshield wipers. Driver side access plate is normally for sender unit. Another possible cause could be a bad or leaking heater core, causing coolant to burn off and producing an odor. If there is no power to the fuse, but power in the wiring to the fuse box, then the fuse box may have a short causing multiple circuits to fail. Could be many things - but if everything was normal until it just didn't start. One had 2 ears for the crank angle sensor and one had 4.
Passenger is usually fuel pump. I would first replace the fuel filter It is something you would need to do every 15,000 miles or 12 months. If no go with your favorite starting stuff, spark is not getting there in time. You problem could either be the o2 sensors or the catalytic converter. One bad guess will cost you more than the manual and meter! If you need further assistance with your , then seek out a professional, such as one from Your Mechanic, to help you. In that case, change the battery.
Are there any other possible problems, or you are just not receiving spark at all now? Turn key off for 30 seconds. Anyway, it's my wife's commute car, and recently it started misbehaving. Blasting them with wd40 or similar overnight helps. Also I would roll the engine over to the compression stroke on number one with the cylinder of 1 at top dead center and see if the marking on the crank pulley show it at being at top dead center. Harbor Frieght has them for a couple bucks. On the way home she began to sputter. I find an impact driver helps, but have snapped two in the past.
The only other known condition with the car is the check engine light popping on every so often with the P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction, which either goes out by itself or needs to be reset. The crankshaft gear for the timing belt was different. He calls back about ten minutes later, thanked me, said it worked and she got home okay. In my opinion, this is not wise. I have very close to the same problem with an automatic 2003 Subaru Forester with under 40K miles on it. I have a 2001 Forester.
I suspect it could be the fuel pump. I did a basic forum search and didn't see anything similar. Dry out, clean plugs, and compression. The car would run fine, I'd park it and run in to the store, come back out, and no start. Nothing happens at all except that the electronic components come on. Started by replacing battery, starter, checked the fuselink good and replaced ignition switch. At this point got smart we thought and rented a diagnostic computer, it said the crankshaft sensor was bad.
I hope this corrects your concern. One reason why I hate selling a used car, get some single mom coming over with three kids crying because she needs a car. Same as the alternator, starter, and blower motor brushes, typically do this at 90K along with all the drive belt bearings, grease dries up. The only thing I have encountered were those tiny 10mm nuts holding the pump in place. Also, should I post this in a new thread to get answers? This will hopefully eliminate all the guess work, or at least point everyone in right direction for better diagnosis.