I have to rev the engine really hard to make it change up. Not just a simple kickdown. Note the orientation of the original and align the new bushing the same way. Try this a few times, so you'll know the sound. I have changed the xyz switch, changed the A mode switch even tried another gearbox but all in vain.
This also serves to pull the kick down cable automatically back down into the lower gear as the need for higher gear due to increased engine revolutions per minute is decreased. In gear it will not do harm. The tach indicator will jump forward and back, then forward again, and ther car lurches. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. If it moves a lot, check engine and transmission mounts. I'd think such longevity of this trany is possible in our Rovers. Also the gear selection is not illuminated in the dash.
Can you live with a little jarring, or do you want to spend some money and see if it can be smoothed out. Even after the output shaft bushing is replaced, the problem could still exist because while the bushing was bad, excessive wear to the transmission case where the shaft goes through, is common. Parked up about an hour. As it warmed it would not even go into 3rd. All other gears shift fine, overdrive is a bit high in rpms but i just need to loosen up the kickdown cable a bit.
Same thing when coming to a stop, it hesitates right before stoping like it doesn't know whether it should be in first or second. There is available a kit specially designed for this purpose. I believe it is white on that car and square in profile. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox. New oil and filter fitted oil at correct level. You're going to end up with a roughly 6x6x8 inch housing which you can work on at your leisure. But some movement is normal.
Much better to be safe than sorry and have to drop the whole kit out again when your bell housing is knocking as you drive. I did almost all the work myself, but it was hard going at times for somebody who'd never peeked inside an auto transmission before. A replacement valve ball is available, you can order it from your local Volvo dealer. Any idea what is causing the transmission to shift hard sometimes? Should i change the oil and filter again? Really into the realm of guessing now. Now adjust slack out of the cable, keep testing by pulling and letting go of the cable, always listening for the click inside the transmission. This is called throttle pressure. I used a touch of synthetic grease on the O-ring-like seal.
Thanks, Stew Hi there, I have a P38 1998 4. I took off the switch, cleaned it adjusted the lever, and tested it. I'm not an expert, but usually with a kickdown it will just cross into the red line before it will shift. I'd like some facts to present them with since they are listening, but so far just have a little info from old newsgroup posts, and from a conversation with a transmission shop. I am looking into a conversion project on a Series Defender.
If you order it from the boneyard, tell them you're doing the conversion. This can be monitored by their Volvo scan tool on a drive while it is overshifting. I've got a 745 with 145K and it seems strong. Hello, The front prop shaft on my 2001 Land Rover Discovery 2 V8 has damaged the automatic gearbox cracking the casing. I drove it the next day as a test and it worked fine.
I stopped and was able to get it to move a few 10s of feet and then it would happen again. I would appreciate any suggestions on a good source for a pan, or alternative solutions to the problem. Of course all new fluids in both. I've relaxed the kick down cable so it functions just before the pedal is fully pushed to the floor. The car was very sluggish on cold start and then got to a point when it would not engage into drive unles reved to 2500rpm, then was fine all day till next morning. I checked the yellow pages for a automatic transmission parts house. If the old drain plug is still in good shape, reuse it; otherwise get a new plug.
I have installed the bushing, seal and gasket and all is working well. Many thanks for your help and assistance with the above, Sean. Please contact me by e-mail. A rebuild is required to correct this. This usually will require replacement as well. If so, which one is it? To clear the forward right-hand-side edge of the transmission tunnel, you must chop a little out of the three fins behind the starter motor bulge if this bump has a proper technical term, please let me know. Make sure that when you replace the torque converter that you line up the oil pump drive tangs properly or you will regret it.