Apparently this is a common defect. I put on 36,000 of them and it ran great most of the time, albeit shifts generally felt inconsistent. More evidence that the original owner of this tranny liked to punch it. Fold-out pages containing fluid flow schematics and two dimensional illustrations of major components graphically display hydraulic circuits. Wire the control arm to the spring so that it doesn't over extend the ball joint: Trans is out. Last edited by on Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
So I pried off their sealing rings and membranes: I found there was trans fluid behind the membranes. This would not cover the manual transmission models. Agrazela gets the credit for this idea. Wiring Harness: Screwed that puppy up; all the little plastic retaining clips to the solenoids were very brittle, and as careful as I tried to be I broke every last one of them: This harness will find use as part of a solenoid test apparatus. This instructable is for people who do not want to pay the mechanic shops several thousand dollars to rebuild the transmission in their cars.
The Master kit will have Borg Warner clutches and new steels. Would using the same pump and having the vanes not in the original location be a problem? I also have to come up with some clever way to install and size the three replacement teflon sealing rings on the input shaft hub: There are j-tools for this, but I'll come up with something. There are also aftermarket beefed-up output shafts, half axles, etc. I have done several manual transmissions, however. Maybe they are just too corroded. The main thing I came away with from this job was the logistical challenge, i. Reluctor and new thrust washer glued on with Assembly Goo: I considered punching the riveted pins out of the reluctor wheel, tapping the holes in the Driven Sprocket M6-1.
This is '97 to '98 style pump, based on my research. Like the 2nd piston, this one has a bonded seal and must be replaced comes with the Master kit. I will credit that to my awesome cardboard box and ziploc bag organizational system. I had the differential ring gear catastrophically fail in my 2002 Lesabre which utilizes the same transmission. I thought about getting new sealing rings or a kit and trying again, maybe with strips of neoprene between the clamp and the ring; but these rings are not exactly cheap enough for such experimentation, and the proper j-tools are extremely uncheap. I read somewhere that the Overhaul kit comes with new sealing rings for these pressure switches.
That was all that was wrong in this trans other than a bearing and a bushing. It's a lot easier and you'll need the room to feed the trans out the side. This is apparently pretty common on factory 4th clutches. Last edited by on Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:13 pm, edited 1 time in total. It is crucial to get these lip seals seated properly, so that they sit in the groove with the lip sticking out all the way around. It appears that a combination of the input clutch short lipped seal and perhaps some worn teflon rings caused this. The transmission was full of metal though it appears the failure was quick as I do not see bearing or gear damage of any significance I believe this to be so.
My concern is inspection of the parts and which parts are safe to reuse and which to toss and replace. Just try to keep the tops and sides as perfect as possible. All these clutches and steels will come with the Master Kit. It's nice to have my 4th gear back also. I'll get more pics of these parts as I inspect them, but here's what it looks like after these are out: If that roll pin falls out, then this pinion:Is free to sling out of the diff carrier and bust your extension housing. It's also crucial not to nick or cut the seals; in some cases, I temporarily wrapped shafts in electrical tape while sliding on the seals to avoid running seals over grooves or sharp edges. Maybe they are just too corroded.
This is a fix to the problem the Author had when he needed to have this tool to have more length. It's thanks to your very detailed post and a couple of youtube videos that I was able to determine which parts were worth saving and even how to go about reassembling everything. According to the book, the retaining ring on the top is not reuseable:And I don't know if the Master kit comes with this retainer. More inspections: Transmission Range Switch: This is the one that sits on top of the trans case, right where the shifter cable attaches. Well I finished my 4T65E rebuild of my Pontiac and it shifts fine.
Once cookies are enabled please. This information is extremely useful when tracing fluid circuits for learning or diagnosis purposes. The surfaces of the sleeve that contact the Teflon rings were fine. Both were pretty much scrap or perhaps good for cores. If I understand correctly, upon disassembly should be able to know if I need the regular replacement one, or the oversize one.
Technicians or other persons not having automatic transaxle or transmission know-how may find this publication somewhat technically complex if additional instruction is not provided. Looked real good inside but I am replacing everything from seals to solenoids to steels. Some contact cleaner: And replace the membranes and these switches are now as fast as the normally open switches. Now I have to take these assemblies to the lab and function-test the reinstalled piston and lip seals with compressed air to make sure all are properly installed. Regulator valve looks good and the bore is fine. It turns out that these seals are tolerant of being molested.
Since there is a wide range of repair procedures and technical specifications specific to certain vehicles and transaxle models, the proper service publication must be referred to when servicing the Hydra-matic 4T65-E transaxle. I'll likely go ahead and use the spare pump. The baggie organizational system and some pictures here and there will save your butt. Even if it falls off, the filter will catch it. In order to shop on this Web store, you must have cookies enabled. I knew fully filled they weigh around 200lbs but was thinking more like 100-120lbs without fluid given their capacity. New chains in bag , versus old chains: That's pretty sweet Anyway, the chains on the sprockets: Then installed into the trans: Getting the turbine shaft into place took some Goo for lube and alot of wriggling and pushing.