Then paid for another tow to the dealer after dealer on the phone checked that my car was still under the extended transfer case warranty. In my experience, it genuinely is the best additive for lubricity and actually does what all the snake oils can only claim to do. There has been three revisions of the transfer case and it still happens. When I got the plug out, the plug was full of gunk and sludge!!! So be on the look out. Yep, it's worse than cleaning the toilet but it's absolutely necessary to keep the transfer case running properly.
I'm going to run it for 500 miles and try to dilute and redo the procedure. I decided to take the plug out and have a look at the magnet since doing so. There were no signs of previous leaking but the fill plug had a thick layer of gunk on it. I changed the transfer case fluid and it still failed. I have read elsewhere though that it is recommended to replace it every 60 000 km. Or should we worry about replacing exactly what was sucked out? My shifts got lazy some. I'm not sure if it's needed or even advised to run it in a transfer case.
Would raising the right side of the car help with extraction of the old oil. To follow up on the more sludge on the plug thought. Serviceman called me this morning and told me that I need to replace the bad transfer case. See: I just took some more photos of a seized transfer case I have on site. One other thing I was able to drive onto the concrete blocks without the helper brick, you just have to go very slow. Not really sure how true this is but since I've been doing the transmission flush since new, I have no reservations about doing it. Any chance for tutorial for rear diff much appreciated.
Avidien is absolutely right, you better wear safety glasses when you do this, errant oil splatters was frequent, get it into your eyes and you're be crying for days. Dropped the car off at 9:00 am, and they were done by 5:00 pm, having replaced the transfer case. I will call mazda on Monday to verify. Then paid for another tow to the dealer after dealer on the phone checked that my car was still under the extended transfer case warranty. Right now, this thing still runs great.
Apr 12, 2015 Engine oil: Drain or extract and replenish; renew oil filter Engine oil: Drain or extract engine oil? I don't think I've ever worked on one that the bolts weren't rusted and seized. I asked the parts guy and he was very clear there was no friction modifier and offered a bottle of it to be added if the installation required it a limited slip diff for example. My car has between 90,400 and 90,500 miles and I shouldn't be having this kind of major problem with a vehicle under 100,000 miles. I think you should be just fine with the re-done fluid. It was undoubtedly transfer case oil. I'll do it again in the spring once the new stuff mixes in and dilutes the goo.
Based on my experience with motor oils, Royal Purple is average and some time sucky oil. It minimizes the effect on the oil viscosity but still does it's thing. And said they had several of the major parts he needed to repair. I've seen a couple threads on the Ford forums where guys just drilled and tapped it without even removing it. With 167,000 miles should I just replace the water pump? Anyone know or have a theory about this? First was about 25K and today was at just about 50K. Once you refilled with new oil, the new oil is just coming out of the breather valve again.
I plan on doing it again when I change the oil in about 1K miles. Now little bit about my service experience. Thanks for the followup avidien. Next time that happens, it will be on my dime. Some oil-filter wrenches grip when turned one direction but not the other. I have some cleanup and interior fixes to make on the car and then I'm going to put it on Craigslist and unload it.
If so, I would think it would make it harder to extract since the plug faces the passenger side. What website did you find that at. The oil more like goop was cold, so it didn't flow well, which made the pumping more difficult. Doing this has made me wish that there were an option to put a remote filter system on the T-case. Not sure I will do it or not, but this also gives me the opportunity to add a small 12 volt pump and reservoir to the T-case. I had no intentions nor did I have any tools to change the transfer case oil today, just wanted to check the plug for the heck of it, fully expecting the plug to be clean with no sludge. They won't let me get under the car and they will try to sell me on whatever story suits them better at the moment.
If your transmission splines are sheared, putting in a brand new transfer case won;t work, the transmission will just keep spinning without turning the transfer case gears. The ptu is poorly designed and improperly fitted to the cx-9 and there are hundreds if not thousands of cases of the exact same problem in any Mazda user forum. Also it is very cramped down there with only 4 inches to work with. Anyway, I'll swap transfer case oil next week, still on the fence with what oil to go with, shortlist so far is Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline. The fluid was in really bad shape so I figured after that the new fluid should thin out the sludge and I'll get much more out with the pump.
Thank you for your attention to this matter. We then brought to a local transmission expert who opened it up and described same problem. But I booked an appointment for this repair, and the control arm recall. The day after the service my wife noticed a strange smell in the cabin. Smell was as nasty as any gear oil, and about the same as the oil I replaced it with.